Sunday, June 19, 2011

Lincoln Lake Update #2

Thursday was another great day at Lincoln Lake in Mt Evans.  After a quick warmup Preston, Nate Draughn, and I went over to The Great War for Civilisation V13 to try and finish it off.  It was Nate's first day on the problem and he was able to make some nice links and work out some good beta.  I'm sure he'll be back for this one!

On Preston's second go of the day he managed to do the boulder!  So sick.  He fell off the last move again on his first go and absolutely killed it on his second try.  Impressive!  It took me a while but I also managed to put the boulder together and topped out with a cheer.

I spent the next couple hours hanging out spotting and enjoying the scenery of Lincoln Lake.  Near the end of the day I met up with Brion at Little House on the Prairie V12.  After figuring out some nice beta I was able to do this one as well!  I really enjoyed Little House and I don't think I could find a boulder problem that suited me better.

Little House on the Prairie V12 - Photo: Nate Drolet

Friday John Gass, Preston, Voges, and I went out to Lincoln again.  We had the craziest weather I've ever seen.  Sun, wind, rain, sun, snow, sun, wind, rainbows, sun, more snow, etc.  It made it quite a challenge to climb because by the time the holds had dried out and you had pads down and your shoes on it would start to rain or snow again.  We had one or two goes each between storms so we had to make every effort count.

Rainbow over Lincoln Lake

Storm moving in

Terrible conditions

Voges and I were psyched to try the slopey, technical  The Mote in God's Eye V13.  We arrived with shovels and were prepared to dig out the boulder.  Luckily it didn't take too long to uncover this gem and within about an hour pads were down and we starting working. We were able to figure out a good method and we both topped out relatively quickly.

Voges digging out The Mote in God's Eye

The Mote in God's Eye V13 - Photo: Brion Voges

We hiked out to encounter a crazy wind storm at the top of the hill and we decided that we deserved some delicious Beau Jo's pizza and Little Man ice cream for our efforts...
Little Man Ice Cream

Beau Jo's!

Unfortunately, I went back to John's spot that night and watched the video of Dave Graham doing the first ascent and realized that we had started with our left hand on the wrong start hold.  We were planning on resting yesterday but when we woke up in the morning and looked at the weather we saw it was going to be kinda sketchy the next couple of days so we made the quick decision to head back out to repeat the boulder with the original start method.  We were both able to repeat it with the original start and Voges was also able to make a quick ascent of Stuntin' Season V12.  

The Mote in God's Eye V13 - Photo: Brion Voges

Since the weather is going to be bad for the next couple of days we will be resting, playing Mario, and eating ice cream.  On Tuesday the plan is to head up to RMNP to see what conditions are like and hopefully do some climbing on the green 45.  PSYCHED!

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