Thursday, March 17, 2011

Colorado Update

I've been in Colorado since last Wednesday night and I am loving it here.  It's been great hanging out with friends, cracking jokes, and going bouldering on some of the best boulders in the country.

On Thursday we drove up to Boulder Canyon to try Cage Free V10 and Free Range V13.  After a bit of effort I was able to hook up Cage Free, which revolves around a big windmill move to a slopey lip.  Voges and I played around on Free Range a little bit before deciding to head to Clear Creek Canyon to try Dark Waters V12.

Our intention was to figure out the moves on Dark Waters because we were pretty tired from traveling the day before and from climbing on the Cage Free boulder.  However, we were able to work out our beta rather quickly and started trying it from the bottom.  We both got close and I ended up falling on the last move 2 or 3 times before calling it a day.

We rested the next morning and drove back out to Clear Creek in the afternoon.  After a quick warmup I started trying it from the bottom and fell on the last move again on my first attempt.  NO!  I rested for a while and was able to finish it off on my next attempt!  Voges came agonizingly close before deciding to call it a day.

Saturday was a rest day for Brion and I, but we headed back out to Boulder Canyon so our buddy and host, John Gass, could try Hardboiled V11.  After working out the moves John killed it!  Nice one!

Sunday was quite the day.  We woke up early and drove out to Clear Creek so Voges could finish off Dark Waters.  After a cold warm up he dispatched first go of the day!  Afterwards we piled back into the car and made the 2.5 hour drive to Poudre Canyon.  My goal for the trip was to climb a boulder called Circadian Rhythm, a nice V13 that Dave Graham established years ago.  We arrived at the boulders and went straight to Circadian so I could check it out before warming up.  Unfortunately, the topout was covered in snow and the slopey jug that you throw to was completely soaked from the melting snow.  What a heartbreaker!  However, I forgot that we were in Colorado and there is NO humidity.  We (John and Brion mostly) brushed off the topout hoping for it to dry off in a couple of hours. Thankfully, the cold, dry, and windy conditions did work and it was good to go after about an hour and a half!

It took a while for me to work out all the moves.  It felt really difficult and I thought I had no chance of doing the boulder.  After about an hour of trying the boulder and flailing all over the thing, attempts were getting better and better.  On one attempt I struggled to get through the bottom and fell on the big last move to the lip.  I was feeling really tired but rested before giving it one more go.  My last go, I pulled on and everything felt so much better than it had the whole day.  Everything seemed to click and before I knew it I was standing on top of the boulder!  SO PSYCHED!  Like I said previously, this was my goal for the trip and I'm really psyched to have it done.

On Monday we went to check out the Bambi Roof.  The climbing on the roof is amazing and it really reminds me of Hueco.  Voges and I were both able to hook up Bambi V11 and Voges also killed Fantasia V13.  I got really close to Fantasia as well, falling on the last move.  We are about to walk out the door to go back up to the roof and I'm hoping I can finish this one off.

We've been shooting some amazing video as well so keep a look out for that in the near future.

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