Monday, March 21, 2011

Colorado Vid

YES!  The video from our Denver trip is finished.  It was great hanging out with Voges and John for the last couple of weeks and I can't wait to get back in early June for the alpine season!  Check out the video below!

Voges, Weaver & Gass: 10 Days on the Front Range from John Gass on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

10 Days on the Front Range

Our time in Denver is up and tomorrow Brion and I are flying back the heat and humidity that frequents the southeast.  We had a great time and we were able to climb many great boulder problems on Colorado's front range.  This has definitely been one of my more productive trips and I am really happy with how things went.  I had no expectations coming out here and I think it helped my climbing. Here's my list from the trip:
  • Right Graham Arete V9
  • Cage Free V10
  • Bambi V11
  • Elegant Universe V11
  • Left Graham Arete V11
  • Dark Waters V12
  • Circadian Rhythm V13
  • Fantasia V13

We had a couple cameras shooting video the whole trip and John, Brion, and I have managed to put together a nice little video of our time here.  The video should be done and ready for your viewing pleasure in a couple of days.  In the meantime, here are some screen shots from '10 days on the Front Range'.

Elegant Universe V11
Elegant Infinite V10
Lower section of Dark Waters V12
Bambi V11
Topout of Bambi/Fantasia
Circadian Rhythm V13
Brion on Suspension of Disbelief V13
John on Hardboiled V11

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Colorado Update

I've been in Colorado since last Wednesday night and I am loving it here.  It's been great hanging out with friends, cracking jokes, and going bouldering on some of the best boulders in the country.

On Thursday we drove up to Boulder Canyon to try Cage Free V10 and Free Range V13.  After a bit of effort I was able to hook up Cage Free, which revolves around a big windmill move to a slopey lip.  Voges and I played around on Free Range a little bit before deciding to head to Clear Creek Canyon to try Dark Waters V12.

Our intention was to figure out the moves on Dark Waters because we were pretty tired from traveling the day before and from climbing on the Cage Free boulder.  However, we were able to work out our beta rather quickly and started trying it from the bottom.  We both got close and I ended up falling on the last move 2 or 3 times before calling it a day.

We rested the next morning and drove back out to Clear Creek in the afternoon.  After a quick warmup I started trying it from the bottom and fell on the last move again on my first attempt.  NO!  I rested for a while and was able to finish it off on my next attempt!  Voges came agonizingly close before deciding to call it a day.

Saturday was a rest day for Brion and I, but we headed back out to Boulder Canyon so our buddy and host, John Gass, could try Hardboiled V11.  After working out the moves John killed it!  Nice one!

Sunday was quite the day.  We woke up early and drove out to Clear Creek so Voges could finish off Dark Waters.  After a cold warm up he dispatched first go of the day!  Afterwards we piled back into the car and made the 2.5 hour drive to Poudre Canyon.  My goal for the trip was to climb a boulder called Circadian Rhythm, a nice V13 that Dave Graham established years ago.  We arrived at the boulders and went straight to Circadian so I could check it out before warming up.  Unfortunately, the topout was covered in snow and the slopey jug that you throw to was completely soaked from the melting snow.  What a heartbreaker!  However, I forgot that we were in Colorado and there is NO humidity.  We (John and Brion mostly) brushed off the topout hoping for it to dry off in a couple of hours. Thankfully, the cold, dry, and windy conditions did work and it was good to go after about an hour and a half!

It took a while for me to work out all the moves.  It felt really difficult and I thought I had no chance of doing the boulder.  After about an hour of trying the boulder and flailing all over the thing, attempts were getting better and better.  On one attempt I struggled to get through the bottom and fell on the big last move to the lip.  I was feeling really tired but rested before giving it one more go.  My last go, I pulled on and everything felt so much better than it had the whole day.  Everything seemed to click and before I knew it I was standing on top of the boulder!  SO PSYCHED!  Like I said previously, this was my goal for the trip and I'm really psyched to have it done.

On Monday we went to check out the Bambi Roof.  The climbing on the roof is amazing and it really reminds me of Hueco.  Voges and I were both able to hook up Bambi V11 and Voges also killed Fantasia V13.  I got really close to Fantasia as well, falling on the last move.  We are about to walk out the door to go back up to the roof and I'm hoping I can finish this one off.

We've been shooting some amazing video as well so keep a look out for that in the near future.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Mini Update

For the past couple of weeks I've been switching gears on the climbing front.  Its been about a year and a half since I've put serious time into rope climbing, but recently I've been working my way back into it. 

This year I decided to go a little bit different route with my climbing than I usually do.  I usually like to spend my winters bouldering in order to get strong for route climbing season in the spring, summer, and fall.  This past year, however, I decided that I wanted to spend the majority of my time bouldering in order to work my weaknesses with hopes that it would ultimately help my route climbing.  Rope climbing has always been my forte and endurance is usually fairly easy to obtain, at least when compared to power.  I started sport climbing again at Stone Summit last week and I definitely have a long way to go to get back to where I used to be.  I basically have no ability to recover on holds in relatively steep terrain at the moment but I can slowly feel it coming back.  I'm excited to apply the bouldering strength I've developed to routes in the near future and can't wait to get back to the Red. 

I'm heading to Colorado next Wednesday for 10 days to boulder on the Front Range and am pretty psyched about it.  I haven't had the chance to check out any of CO's bouldering so I'm definitely looking forward to it.  I'm hoping that the weather at the Red won't be outrageously warm when I get back and if everything works out I'm hoping to make it up there a couple of times before the summer heat and humidity sets in.