Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Update

It's been a long while since I last posted.  Mostly because not much has been happening on the climbing front.  After returning from Colorado in June I was busy resetting the gym after youth nationals and studying hard for my last semester.  Since then I've been climbing in the gym a bunch and focusing on getting the semester over with.

This last weekend was the first leg of the Triple Crown bouldering series in Boone, NC.  Last year I swore it'd be my last year competing but I somehow managed to talk myself into competing again this year.  Lucky for me my friends Brion and Jimmy both decided to sit out of the Hound Ears comp which made things a little easier.

Competitors awoke Saturday morning to terrible conditions.  The roads were wet, rain was intermitent, and it was cold.  The judges decided to call the event and wait until Sunday in hopes of better conditions.  A group of us decided it was best to go into town and grab breakfast and then try to head somewhere other than Hound Ears to climb.  We settled on going to Lost Cove and when we arrived at the parking spot we were greeted by sunny skies and a crisp breeze.  It was amazing to find such great conditions only 15 minutes away from Hound Ears and we had a pleasant day climbing in the hills of North Carolina.

Sunday was the perfect day for a Hound Ears comp.  Temps were cold and the wind was blowing.  The day was really enjoyable.  I was able to climb with my friend Nate Draughn the entire day which was quite nice considering we don't get to climb together all that much.  After it was all said and done I managed to win my first Triple Crown event and Nate ended up taking 2nd.  It seemed like everybody was climbing strong and having a great time. Check out Brion Voges' video below for some climbing in Boone...




Last Saturday was the Stone Fort portion of Triple Crown.  It was a little odd competing in two events on back to back weekends but it turned out to be great.   The conditions were completely opposite from Hound Ears the weekend before.  It was sunny and humid with temps in the mid 70s.  Again, I was able to climb the entire day with my buddy Nate Draughn and we were able to come out in 1st and 2nd place again at this comp.  For now its back to the gym and back to school work.  I have 2 months left before I graduate and I am looking forward to never picking up a textbook again.  This weekend is going to be low key but I'm hoping to get out to Boone before the end of October.  I'm psyched on a bunch of problems in the south right now and can't wait until December to make it back to Hueco!   


Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Back to the South

Well our time here in Colorado is coming to a close.  On Sunday John, Preston, and I went back down to Lincoln Lake for a final session in the area.  It was quite warm but I managed to make a flash ascent of the INCREDIBLE Honey Badger V10 and I was also able to hook up Unshackled Sit V10 with the quickness.  I have to say that Honey Badger is amazing and if you are ever at Lincoln Lake you need to at least look at this problem. 


Unshackled Sit V10 - Photo: Allen Chaney


Honey Badger V10 - Photo: Preston Alexander


Our last climbing day was Monday and we went back out to Area A to try and finish up some unfinished business. Long story short, none of us were able to pull anything off!  Oh well!  NEXT YEAR! Although I would have liked to finish off Ode, failing to do it gives me the the extra drive to get back to the gym to train harder in order to accomplish future goals. I am psyched to get back into Stone Summit and train for the remainder of the summer with goals and projects in mind for the fall and winter season.  I've seen huge gains from our training sessions at the gym and I truly believe that this is the best gym I've ever been to! 

Today we will be spending our time packing, sitting by the pool, and eating more ice cream.  Tomorrow we make the long 23 hour journey back to Atlanta.  Thanks to everybody for the encouragement while I've been out here.  Much appreciated!  That means YOU, Jonathan Brandt!

Ladies and gentlemen, Jonathan Brandt.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Area A

After 2 days of rest we decided to head out to Area A in Mt. Evans.  The snow situation in the park is keeping us from heading up there and a break was needed from Lincoln Lake.

My goal for the day was to try and do No More Greener Grasses V12 on the Dali boulder.  After a quick warmup I scoped the holds and laid pads down underneath NMGG.  I knew if I made it through the hard second move that I had a really good chance at flashing the boulder.  After the hard second move there are only a few more crimp moves and a committing jump to the lip before you top out.  I pulled off the ground, got the right hand just right and was able to snag the good left hand edge.  Once I hit the next good right hand edge I prepared to give 100% on the big move to the lip.  Luckily, I was able to snag the lip and was able to top out first try!  SO psyched to be able to do this boulder quickly.  I've wanted to try it for the longest time and flashing it was a dream come true.

No More Greener Grasses V12 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

No More Greener Grasses V12 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

No More Greener Grasses V12 - Photo: Nathan Drolet


Another goal of mine for the day was to try and work out the moves on Ode to the Modern Man V14.  I surprised myself by falling off the jump move to the sloper on my third try.  This happened a couple more times before I put a hole in my finger and was forced to tape up.  Things didn't go quite so well after the tape went on and I only made the difficult match move a couple more times before calling it a day.  I'm really psyched to get back out to this one and hopefully we can catch some cooler temps in the morning sometime next week. 



Ode to the Modern Man V14 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

Ode to the Modern Man V14 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

Ode to the Modern Man V14 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

Ode to the Modern Man V14 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

Ode to the Modern Man V14 - Photo: Nathan Drolet

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Lincoln Lake Update #2

Thursday was another great day at Lincoln Lake in Mt Evans.  After a quick warmup Preston, Nate Draughn, and I went over to The Great War for Civilisation V13 to try and finish it off.  It was Nate's first day on the problem and he was able to make some nice links and work out some good beta.  I'm sure he'll be back for this one!

On Preston's second go of the day he managed to do the boulder!  So sick.  He fell off the last move again on his first go and absolutely killed it on his second try.  Impressive!  It took me a while but I also managed to put the boulder together and topped out with a cheer.

I spent the next couple hours hanging out spotting and enjoying the scenery of Lincoln Lake.  Near the end of the day I met up with Brion at Little House on the Prairie V12.  After figuring out some nice beta I was able to do this one as well!  I really enjoyed Little House and I don't think I could find a boulder problem that suited me better.

Little House on the Prairie V12 - Photo: Nate Drolet


Friday John Gass, Preston, Voges, and I went out to Lincoln again.  We had the craziest weather I've ever seen.  Sun, wind, rain, sun, snow, sun, wind, rainbows, sun, more snow, etc.  It made it quite a challenge to climb because by the time the holds had dried out and you had pads down and your shoes on it would start to rain or snow again.  We had one or two goes each between storms so we had to make every effort count.

Rainbow over Lincoln Lake

Storm moving in

Terrible conditions


Voges and I were psyched to try the slopey, technical  The Mote in God's Eye V13.  We arrived with shovels and were prepared to dig out the boulder.  Luckily it didn't take too long to uncover this gem and within about an hour pads were down and we starting working. We were able to figure out a good method and we both topped out relatively quickly.

Voges digging out The Mote in God's Eye


The Mote in God's Eye V13 - Photo: Brion Voges



We hiked out to encounter a crazy wind storm at the top of the hill and we decided that we deserved some delicious Beau Jo's pizza and Little Man ice cream for our efforts...
Little Man Ice Cream

Beau Jo's!


Unfortunately, I went back to John's spot that night and watched the video of Dave Graham doing the first ascent and realized that we had started with our left hand on the wrong start hold.  We were planning on resting yesterday but when we woke up in the morning and looked at the weather we saw it was going to be kinda sketchy the next couple of days so we made the quick decision to head back out to repeat the boulder with the original start method.  We were both able to repeat it with the original start and Voges was also able to make a quick ascent of Stuntin' Season V12.  

The Mote in God's Eye V13 - Photo: Brion Voges


Since the weather is going to be bad for the next couple of days we will be resting, playing Mario, and eating ice cream.  On Tuesday the plan is to head up to RMNP to see what conditions are like and hopefully do some climbing on the green 45.  PSYCHED!

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Lincoln Lake update and Sportiva LIVE article

First off, check out this Sportiva LIVE article for 10 tips to keep yourself psyched through the summer months! I was stuck in HOTlanta last summer and I wrote a little writeup on some ways that I was able to keep myself motivated throughout the grueling summer months, so I figured I'd share it with everybody.  If you are stuck somewhere hot this summer I hope it helps!

Fortunately, this year I'm in Colorado for my first alpine bouldering season.  I have three weeks here and its not even close to enough time to try all the boulder problems on my list.  My buddy John Gass picked me up from the airport on Sunday afternoon and a bunch of us from the south spent Monday and Tuesday at Lincoln Lake in Mt. Evans.

Lincoln Lake
 

Lincoln Lake's elevation is around 11,000 ft, close to 10,000 feet higher than what I'm used to.  Needless to say a bit of acclimation was necessary.  The approach to the boulders is a steep downhill 15 minute hike and the hike out is around 45 minutes straight uphill.  I don't think my legs have ever been this sore and I am happy to be sitting on the couch today.

Lincoln Lake


On Monday my goal was to just try and get used to the altitude and to do some moves on some harder boulder problems.  After a long warm up some of us decided to try Phobos V10.  The forced moves on this boulder are really fun and it was awesome to finally try it after seeing it in several videos.  Nate Draughn and I were able to piece it together with some effort and I think it was a nice introduction to alpine bouldering.

Phobos V10  -  Photo: Brion Voges 


Afterwards my buddy Preston and I moved over to Evil Backwards V13 with the goal of trying to do all the moves.   At first it felt difficult but after a while I worked out some nice beta and had done all but the big crux move out left.  I felt tired but really wanted to do all the moves that day so I rested for a while before giving it another attempt.  The sun had started to go down and the temps dropped significantly, so I figured it was a good time to give it one last go.  I pulled on and made my way to the crux move and somehow managed to stick the good left hand edge.  From there my body kind of took over and before I knew what had happened I was topping out the boulder!  Evil Backwards was my number one goal for the trip and I am super psyched to have done it on the first day.

Yesterday we went back out so we could try The Great War for Civilsation V13.  Once again, the goal was to try and work out all the moves and to come up with some good beta.  Preston and I both worked out our own methods due to our difference in height and even though our methods are quite different, it's pretty interesting that it still boils down to the same breakdown in difficulty for the two sections of the problem.  It's around V7 or so to get to a good left hand sidepull and then it comes down to three hard moves in a row before you are topping out.  For me, I grab a bad right hand pinch (one of the worst holds I've ever had to move off of), get a high left foot, make a hard bump move up with my left hand to a crimp, and then do a hard lurpy move up to a good rail. 

Bad right hand pinch method on The Great War for Civilisation V13  -  Photo: Brion Voges

Preston has to do a large, difficult move out right to a sloper, do the same high left foot and bump move with his left hand, then do another large, difficult move to a bad sloper with his right before reaching the good rail. 
Preston on the last hard move of The Great War for Civilisation V13  -  Photo: Brion Voges


We were both close yesterday, falling off the last move.  This is one of the best boulder problems that I've ever seen and I feel fortunate to be able to climb on it.  The holds are amazing, the moves are unique, and  I can't wait to get back tomorrow to try and finish it off!

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

10 Videos...again

I'll be in Colorado in less than 4 weeks and I am SO psyched!   I've been watching climbing videos non-stop and have been in the gym at least 5 days a week in preparation for the summer.  Last year I wrote a post about the 10 climbing videos that had kept me psyched throughout the grueling summer months.  The one complaint I received was that I didn't put it out soon enough so this year I figured I'd put out a list before the heat set in.  Below is a list of 10 videos (in no particular order) that have kept me psyched recently.



1.) Phil Schaal : Two from the High Country
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/phillip-schaal-two-high-country?page=16

2.) Daniel Woods Best Day Ever
http://www.iclimb.com/products/Daniel-Woods-Best-Day-Ever.html

3.) Ty Landman on Nothing but Sunshine
http://www.momentumvm2.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53%3Anothing-but-sunshine&catid=13%3Avideo&Itemid=3

4.) Daniel Woods on American Gangster
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/daniel-woods-american-gangster?page=11

5.) Nalle and Jon Cardwell in Wolverineland
http://vimeo.com/15271569

6.) Jon Cardwell on Top Notch
http://www.vimeo.com/13536392

7.) Enter the WOLVO
http://www.vimeo.com/16291191

8.) The Exfoliator
http://vimeo.com/14993382

9.) Jamie Emerson on Evil Backwards
http://vimeo.com/14720904

10.) Daniel Woods on Hypnotized Minds
http://vimeo.com/17447512

Monday, March 21, 2011

Colorado Vid

YES!  The video from our Denver trip is finished.  It was great hanging out with Voges and John for the last couple of weeks and I can't wait to get back in early June for the alpine season!  Check out the video below!



Voges, Weaver & Gass: 10 Days on the Front Range from John Gass on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

10 Days on the Front Range

Our time in Denver is up and tomorrow Brion and I are flying back the heat and humidity that frequents the southeast.  We had a great time and we were able to climb many great boulder problems on Colorado's front range.  This has definitely been one of my more productive trips and I am really happy with how things went.  I had no expectations coming out here and I think it helped my climbing. Here's my list from the trip:
  • Right Graham Arete V9
  • Cage Free V10
  • Bambi V11
  • Elegant Universe V11
  • Left Graham Arete V11
  • Dark Waters V12
  • Circadian Rhythm V13
  • Fantasia V13

We had a couple cameras shooting video the whole trip and John, Brion, and I have managed to put together a nice little video of our time here.  The video should be done and ready for your viewing pleasure in a couple of days.  In the meantime, here are some screen shots from '10 days on the Front Range'.



Elegant Universe V11
Elegant Infinite V10
Lower section of Dark Waters V12
Bambi V11
Topout of Bambi/Fantasia
Circadian Rhythm V13
Brion on Suspension of Disbelief V13
John on Hardboiled V11

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Colorado Update

I've been in Colorado since last Wednesday night and I am loving it here.  It's been great hanging out with friends, cracking jokes, and going bouldering on some of the best boulders in the country.

On Thursday we drove up to Boulder Canyon to try Cage Free V10 and Free Range V13.  After a bit of effort I was able to hook up Cage Free, which revolves around a big windmill move to a slopey lip.  Voges and I played around on Free Range a little bit before deciding to head to Clear Creek Canyon to try Dark Waters V12.

Our intention was to figure out the moves on Dark Waters because we were pretty tired from traveling the day before and from climbing on the Cage Free boulder.  However, we were able to work out our beta rather quickly and started trying it from the bottom.  We both got close and I ended up falling on the last move 2 or 3 times before calling it a day.

We rested the next morning and drove back out to Clear Creek in the afternoon.  After a quick warmup I started trying it from the bottom and fell on the last move again on my first attempt.  NO!  I rested for a while and was able to finish it off on my next attempt!  Voges came agonizingly close before deciding to call it a day.

Saturday was a rest day for Brion and I, but we headed back out to Boulder Canyon so our buddy and host, John Gass, could try Hardboiled V11.  After working out the moves John killed it!  Nice one!

Sunday was quite the day.  We woke up early and drove out to Clear Creek so Voges could finish off Dark Waters.  After a cold warm up he dispatched first go of the day!  Afterwards we piled back into the car and made the 2.5 hour drive to Poudre Canyon.  My goal for the trip was to climb a boulder called Circadian Rhythm, a nice V13 that Dave Graham established years ago.  We arrived at the boulders and went straight to Circadian so I could check it out before warming up.  Unfortunately, the topout was covered in snow and the slopey jug that you throw to was completely soaked from the melting snow.  What a heartbreaker!  However, I forgot that we were in Colorado and there is NO humidity.  We (John and Brion mostly) brushed off the topout hoping for it to dry off in a couple of hours. Thankfully, the cold, dry, and windy conditions did work and it was good to go after about an hour and a half!

It took a while for me to work out all the moves.  It felt really difficult and I thought I had no chance of doing the boulder.  After about an hour of trying the boulder and flailing all over the thing, attempts were getting better and better.  On one attempt I struggled to get through the bottom and fell on the big last move to the lip.  I was feeling really tired but rested before giving it one more go.  My last go, I pulled on and everything felt so much better than it had the whole day.  Everything seemed to click and before I knew it I was standing on top of the boulder!  SO PSYCHED!  Like I said previously, this was my goal for the trip and I'm really psyched to have it done.

On Monday we went to check out the Bambi Roof.  The climbing on the roof is amazing and it really reminds me of Hueco.  Voges and I were both able to hook up Bambi V11 and Voges also killed Fantasia V13.  I got really close to Fantasia as well, falling on the last move.  We are about to walk out the door to go back up to the roof and I'm hoping I can finish this one off.

We've been shooting some amazing video as well so keep a look out for that in the near future.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Mini Update

For the past couple of weeks I've been switching gears on the climbing front.  Its been about a year and a half since I've put serious time into rope climbing, but recently I've been working my way back into it. 


This year I decided to go a little bit different route with my climbing than I usually do.  I usually like to spend my winters bouldering in order to get strong for route climbing season in the spring, summer, and fall.  This past year, however, I decided that I wanted to spend the majority of my time bouldering in order to work my weaknesses with hopes that it would ultimately help my route climbing.  Rope climbing has always been my forte and endurance is usually fairly easy to obtain, at least when compared to power.  I started sport climbing again at Stone Summit last week and I definitely have a long way to go to get back to where I used to be.  I basically have no ability to recover on holds in relatively steep terrain at the moment but I can slowly feel it coming back.  I'm excited to apply the bouldering strength I've developed to routes in the near future and can't wait to get back to the Red. 

I'm heading to Colorado next Wednesday for 10 days to boulder on the Front Range and am pretty psyched about it.  I haven't had the chance to check out any of CO's bouldering so I'm definitely looking forward to it.  I'm hoping that the weather at the Red won't be outrageously warm when I get back and if everything works out I'm hoping to make it up there a couple of times before the summer heat and humidity sets in.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Whoa

What a crazy trip.  Earlier I posted that we went to Arkansas knowing that there was snow on the ground.  However, I didn't know there was going to be THAT much snow on the ground.  We arrived to see a good foot and a half of powder covering EVERYTHING.  Luckily, we came prepared.  As soon as we arrived at the ranch on Friday afternoon we set to work cleaning boulders and landings hoping that it would help speed up the drying process for Saturday.  You might have noticed that we left Thursday morning and didn't arrive until Friday afternoon....I'm sure you're thinking, "Surely it didn't take you 20 hours to make a 10 hour trip".  Well sure enough, that's exactly what happened.

Everything was going great, the roads were dry and the psych was high. Then tragedy struck.  My friend Brion was a couple hours ahead of us and I received a call saying that the entire interstate was at a stand still.  I was kinda bummed knowing that we were coming up on traffic but I figured it couldn't be that bad.... damn was I wrong!  It took us 8 hours to get from Memphis to Little Rock....that's just over 100 miles.  The roads were a sheet of ice, cars were in the ditch everywhere you looked, and I'm pretty sure that walking would have been faster than the flow of traffic.  6 p.m. turned into 2 a.m. and we were still stuck on the interstate.  We decided to throw in the towel and just get a hotel room.  But it wasn't that simple.  Every hotel we went to was booked solid.  Places were just throwing up signs on their doors saying "No Vacancy", "No Room", while others just locked their doors altogether.  We were still a good 25 miles away from Little Rock at this point but we had no other option but to just get back on the highway and carefully make our way on the death ice to Little Rock.  Thankfully, we arrived safely and were able to find an open room.  I don't think any of us have been so happy to be out of the car in our lives.  I have NEVER in my life seen anything like that before.  Parked trucks on both sides of the interstate for miles.

We woke up the next morning to find the roads in much better shape and we quickly made our way to the ranch to start work on cleaning off boulders.

Shoveling Snow - Brion Voges Photo



After a productive day of boulder brushing, we awoke the next morning hoping that we were going to be able to climb.  Luckily, the boulders we brushed were dry and we set to work to make it happen.  Holly got things going by quickly doing Fraziac, a nice V6 on the Dig Dug boulder.  After, we made the hike out to Southern Lean V11, a really nice boulder with awesome holds and rad movement.  Brion, Nate, Preston, and I were all able to put it together.  It was a really nice, relaxed session and it was rad seeing everybody do it the same day.

We ran over to Typhoon so Preston, Brion, and Holly could play on it while we waited for Shadow Jumper to get out of the sun.  Brion was able to do the eliminate method quickly and Holly got super close on the actual non-contrived method before calling it a day.  No worries though...she was able to put it together on our final day!  Sick!

We cruised over to Shadow Jumper V11 when the sun started to go down.  Shadow Jumper is a really unique, slopey arete that looks incredibly easy upon first viewing but climbs very subtly.  It takes a while to figure out how to move on it but after you do, it comes together quickly.  After rewarming up Voges and I were able to put it together!  Nate was super close but it was getting dark quickly so we had to bail.  It will go quickly next time for sure!

The next day we made the decision to check out Fred's Cave.  This was probably one of the dumber decisions we made on the trip because the dirt road leading down to Fountaine Red was rough!  After committing to getting to the actual climbing area, Voges and I hopped in his ride and split off from the rest of the crew to go check out Dub's Cave to see if it was dry.  Dub's cave is about a mile back up the dirt hill that leads to Fred's Cave and we quickly realized that getting out was going to be much more of an issue than we initially thought it was going to be.  After getting stuck on the way out we decided it was best to just dig out as much of the road as we could so it wouldn't be an issue later getting out of the woods.  We made pretty quick work of the road and made it up to Dub's cave to find it completely soaked.  Big bummer!  Back down the road we went.  It was already in much better shape than it was when we went up it just 30 minutes prior so we figured we were good to go.  After making it back to Fontaine Red for a quick warm up, Nate and Preston made their way over to Fred's Cave to try One Inch Pinch V12.  Brion and I were pretty psyched to make our way back to the ranch to go try Welcome to Fight Club V13 so we took off hoping to get back before it was dark. As it turns out, Preston was able to hook up the one day ascent of One Inch! 

Preston on One Inch Pinch V12 - http://p-alexander.blogspot.com photo


On the way out we were almost to the main road when we came to the last little hill that would give us trouble.  This was probably the worst part of the dirt road because of the ice and snow.  The truck in front of us couldn't make it up the hill and after some debate we decided we were going to have to dig out that section of the road so the rest of our crew wouldn't get stuck on the way out.  Again, after 30 minutes of digging,  the road was clear and we were on our way to the ranch.

Voges and I hustled to Welcome to Fight Club and quickly started working out all the moves.  We both figured it out and realized that, even though it is a traverse, it is really fun.  The moves are great and the edges are small.  I think this boulder comes down to pain tolerance and if you have good skin you are set.  Voges and I managed to make a few good links before dark and I had plans to come back the next day to try again.

The next day was our last day and I decided to rest until the evening to try and give Fight Club some good efforts.  Unfortunately, my skin was killing me from the previous day's efforts and I was unable to make any progress.  I would be SO psyched to get back to AR but the weather is heating up fast and I have a feeling that I'm going to have to wait until next season to give it another effort.

The drive back was much less epic and I'm now sitting here writing a blogpost instead of doing homework.  Procrastination is the best.  I'm hoping to make it to Boone here soon but until then it will be trips to Chatty and the gym.  It might be time to get back to my routes for a little bit (get it...back to my roots! awww man!)...its been a while and it wouldn't hurt to mix it up a bit!  I guess we will see...

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Time for an Adventure

Not much has been happening the past week or so.  The majority of my time is spent on school work.  Its kinda funny to imagine what professors think when they assign work.  I really don't think they understand that students take more than one class a semester.  In all 5 of my classes I have at least a chapter of reading assigned every week, and in some cases two.  I spent 8 hours reading the other day for one class and wasn't even able to finish the four assigned chapters.  Add to that discussion questions, assignments, projects, quizzes, and studying for exams for all your classes and its easy to find yourself with NO time.  The extra work is a major disadvantage to online classes, however, it allows me to free up time to climb during the week.

On a climbing-related note I managed to get out a couple times over the last week or so and managed to do some problems on my list for this year including BERT V11, Mega Man V11, and JH V10. I have  video of a couple problems from the Chattanooga area but I haven't had time to touch the footage, so keep an eye out for that here soon.

Nate on a Hustle and Flow


A large crew is heading to Arkansas tomorrow.  It snowed 12-18 inches in Jasper today so we are going in expecting the worst and hoping for the best.  The snow shovel and brushes are packed.  Friday is looking like a day full of boulder brushing. The weather is looking good for the rest of the week so we are optimistic!  A couple of us are psyched to get back to boulders we left unfinished from our previous visit so hopefully we can make something happen!

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Lately Happenings and Arkansas Vid

Not much has been happening the last few weeks.  Since my return from Arkansas I've been climbing in the gym and heading out to some local spots when I have a break from school.

One thing I've noticed lately is that its hard climbing in the same areas after you've done the climbs that fit you well...all that's left are climbs that are really hard for you or climbs that just aren't that appealing.  I've been trying to stay psyched but its difficult to do when you get your ass kicked everyday you go out.

I've been trying the uber classic Biggie Shorty Extension Reverse Traverse a.k.a. BERT for the last few LRC sessions.   Its climbs exactly how it sounds.  Start on Biggie Shorty and climb left into where the extension starts.  It might not be a proud, independent line but it is actually really fun and it climbs  well.



BERT V11 - Hayley Watts photo

BERT V11 - Hayley Watts photo



Today I decided to switch it up and head to Cumberland, which is an area I hadn't had the chance to visit before.  I was super psyched to try a few of Chattanooga's classic roof problems that are located out there.  Temps were in the low 60's so it wasn't the best climbing weather, but it was really nice to not freeze while resting.  I had a pretty productive day and ended up completing Gross's Roof V11, Big Gulp V10, Slurpee V9, and Seven Eleven V9 before the day was over.  I felt like I was in a slump for a while there so I'm hoping that this means I've made my way out of it.

Below is a video I threw together of our trip to Arkansas a few weeks ago as well as some photos from the last few days.  Enjoy!



Cold in Arkansas from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.






Nate Draughn on Innovation V9

Nate on Innovation V9

Nate on Dragon Slayer V12

Rami Annab on Dragon Slayer V12

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Brian Antheunisse - Nagual V13

While I was in Hueco I had the opportunity to climb with Texas native Brian Antheunisse.  Not only is he one of the nicest, most down to earth people I've met, he's also super motivated and gives it his all 100% of the time.  I was lucky enough to have the camera rolling on some of his attempts on Nagual V13 and was able to get his send go on film.  Check it out...



Nagual V13 from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

AR Trip

Well, winter break is over and the spring semester has started. I had a great break from school and decided to finish it right with a little trip to Arkansas last week. Nate Draughn, Rami, Jimmy, and I left for our 8 day trip last Saturday. The beginning of the week was FREEZING. Highs in the lower 20s made for slow mornings and climbing required a small fire in order to keep warm.


Nate on Chunk - Rami Annab Photo


My main goal for the trip was Chunk up the Deuce V12 and after a few days of work Nate and I were able to piece it together. Super psyched to have this one done...it is the epitome of what a hard problem represents to me and the fact that it is not in my style made it even more fulfilling to complete. Other than that I was able to do a few classics in the area including Buddy V10 flash, Kneeling Before Power V10, Tang V10, Typhoon V10, 52 to 1 Cardeck V9, Moondye V9, Fat Boy Deluxe V8, and Orbital Mechanics V8.

I have a little bit of video from the trip that I haven't had a chance to mess with but as soon as I get to it I'll be sure to post it.   Until then, here's a video Jimmy put together of our 8 day stay in Arkansas...



8 days in the AR from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.


I'm hoping to make it back to AR sometime in February as well! Unfinished boulders to complete before it gets warm again!