Saturday, December 25, 2010

Hueco Video

I put together a video from my trip to Hueco and have posted it below.  I was pretty lazy with the camera during our trip but still managed to get footage of three problems.  Hope you enjoy!



Hueco Trip from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Back Home

After a long 26 hour drive we have arrived safely back in Atlanta.  Hueco was awesome and I can't wait to get back next year.  I'm taking a few days off from climbing for the holidays and the rest is much welcomed.  I feel like I've been on the go constantly since February and it will be nice to have some down time to recover physically and mentally  from the last few months of training and school work.  I had enough time today to throw together a little video of a problem I did a while back in Laurel Falls, Tennesee called Stankins V11, which I've posted below.  I'm in the process of going through what little footage I have from Hueco as well.  I'll be sure to post it on here when its finished.  Happy holidays everyone!


Stankins V11 from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Hueco Update #4

We have two days left in Hueco.   Over the last few days I've been fortunate enough to be able to climb Full Monty V12, Barefoot on Sacred Ground V11, The Flame V11, and Full Service V10.  I had a nice blog piece written but blogger decided it was best to just delete it. SUPER psyched.  I don't remember exactly what I wrote and I don't have the patience to rewrite it so I'll just post some photos for you to enjoy....ridiculous.




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Hayley on Baby Martini V6


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Brian Hedrick on Right Martini V12


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Brian Hedrick on Right Martini V12

Monday, December 13, 2010

Hueco Update #3

Another couple of days have passed here in Hueco. Time seems to be flying by and even though we have a week left, it seems that things are winding down. I find myself having to be somewhat selective on problems I try now so I don't end up getting in over my head with several projects.

Voges and Jimmy got into town on Friday, and on Saturday Voges and I went up to Bleeding Brothers V12 to see if we could do anything on the problem. I ended up flailing but Voges sent in quick fashion. Nice!

Voges on Bleeding Brothers V12

Voges on Bleeding Brothers V12

Afterwards we met up with Jimmy in the Martini Cave to try Esperanza. I've tried the problem a couple times already and I feel like if I had two weeks to dedicate to the boulder than I might be able to piece it together. Its pretty cool trying Esperanza because it feels like how The Womb at Rocktown felt to me 3 years ago. I would love to do the problem one day and its awesome to even be able to try it.

Trying Esperanza - Hayley's Photo

Yesterday we went to East where Voges nearly did Slashface. He will send soon for sure. We made our way to Full Service V10 and Full Throttle V13 at the end of the day. I was psyched to be able to do Full Service quickly and Jimmy, Brian Antheunisse, and I put in work on Full Throttle. We are heading back at the end of the week and I'm sure there will be a take down.

Tomorrow we are heading to the Spur again to try Nagual V13. Brian Antheunisse was SUPER close the last time we were out there, falling going to the jug at the lip. Voges and I have yet to try it so we are PSYCHED! My fingers are sweating just thinking about it.


Brian Antheunisse on Nagual V13 - Hayley's Photo

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Hueco Update #2

I love this place. The climbing just gets better and better. Its awesome hanging out with cool people at night and climbing boulders during the day. Today and tomorrow are rest days for Hayley and I. In the last couple of days I have managed to climb a couple more cool problems including a flash of Tequila Sunrise V12, a flash of Power of Landjager V11, as well as a send of Crown of Aragorn V13 in just over an hour! SO HAPPY! I have hardly any video from my trip so far, but here are a few photos Hayley and Adam Johnson snapped.


Power of Landjager V11 - Hayley's photo

Power of Landjager V11 - Hayley's photo
Tequila Sunrise V12 - Adam Johnson photo

Tequila Sunrise V12 - Adam Johnson photo

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Hueco Update #1

Its hard to believe it has been a week since Hayley and I arrived in Hueco.  The climbing here is simply amazing.  There are so many boulder problems here and our three week stay doesn't even begin to allow us to see everything Hueco has to offer.  We've climbed 6 out of 8 days so far and I've been able to knock a few problems off of my to-do list.

On our first day we did a lot of exploring on North.  While searching out boulders I was able to flash two classic problems, Power of Silence V10 and Chablanke V11.  Power of Silence is one of my favorite problems so far and it was nice to be able to cross a problem off of my lifetime ticklist.  We made our way to the Martini Cave at the end of the day and I was able to figure out the beta for the classic endurance oriented Right Martini V12 fairly quickly.  We decided to call it a day there in order to save some energy for the following two days.

Time zones are on our side here in Hueco.  With a two hour difference in our favor, it is nice to be able to wake up without much struggle at around 6:30 every morning (8:30 our time).  The jump start we get in the morning helps me feel productive and we usually get into the park right around the time they open, which helps keep stress levels down and keeps us from rushing to get everything in order. 

The next day we woke up early and made our way into the park.  The fatigue from driving for two days set in and I felt pretty tired, but I was psyched to try El Techo de los Tres B, a nice V11 at the bottom of North.  After trying it for a while I found out I had to figure out some different beta from the usual bump method that everybody seems to use.  After figuring out a nice heel hook method I was able to piece it together, which is nice.  The conditions were pretty terrible that day with the wind causing it to be extremely cold and miserable, so we called it early.


The next day was much more enjoyable and the wind had calmed down.  We hadn't been to the boulders on top of North mountain yet and decided it would be cool to check them out.  After warming up I did the classic Daily Dick Dose V7 and started working on Alma Blanca V12/13.  I thought I was getting close, but have since decided that it is close to impossible for me to do.  I have spent two seperate sessions on it now and the big move to the lip is insanely difficult for me.  I decided to cut my losses and move on to another problem.

The next day was a rest day and on Thursday we had reservations on North again.  One of my goals for the trip was to put in good flash burns on Diaphanous Sea V11 and Free Willy V10.  I decided that I felt decent enough after a rest day to try both.  After a quick warm up we walked uphill to Diaphanous and I was able to do it on my first attempt!  Perfectly my style!  One down, one to go!  We made our way to Free Willy and I was able to dispatch on my first attempt again!  A good day for sure!  Next, we made our way over to the Martini Cave again so I could try Right Martini.  I made a couple good links from the start but wasn't able to piece it together.

I was feeling tired the next day but wanted to try and finish Right Martini.  On my first go I fell making the big move into the hueco.  Not a good sign.  On my next attempt I was able to make it past the hueco and fell on the traverse section toward the end of the climb.  PUMPED!  26 moves seems like a lot considering I've been climbing on 10 move boulder problems for the last 6 months.  I rested for a while and gave it another attempt, making it through the lower crux section and the traverse section I managed to pump myself off of on the previous attempt.  I shook out for a second and moved toward the V3 outro section, only to pump off the LAST move getting onto the headwall.  Devestation!  I rested again and gave what would be my last attempt for the day.  I was completely wrecked and my forearms felt like jello.  I barely managed to make it into the hueco in the middle of the problem and eventually found my way to the top of the boulder!  So happy I didn't fall on the end again!  I'm really psyched to have done such a classic problem, and one that I've wanted to do since I saw it in Sessions about 6 years ago.

The last two days have been nice as well.  The temps are a bit warm in the afternoon, however, the caves here are cool and dry.  Over the last couple of days I've been able to do a couple other problems, including Anal Intruder #10 V11, as well as make progress on some harder lines that I would love to be able to do in the next two weeks.  Tomorrow we are heading back to North, where I'm going to TRY and take it easy because we have a tour set for Tuesday in the East Spur.  I have yet to go into the back country and there are several problems I have my sights set on.  SO PSYCHED!!!