Sunday, December 5, 2010

Hueco Update #1

Its hard to believe it has been a week since Hayley and I arrived in Hueco.  The climbing here is simply amazing.  There are so many boulder problems here and our three week stay doesn't even begin to allow us to see everything Hueco has to offer.  We've climbed 6 out of 8 days so far and I've been able to knock a few problems off of my to-do list.

On our first day we did a lot of exploring on North.  While searching out boulders I was able to flash two classic problems, Power of Silence V10 and Chablanke V11.  Power of Silence is one of my favorite problems so far and it was nice to be able to cross a problem off of my lifetime ticklist.  We made our way to the Martini Cave at the end of the day and I was able to figure out the beta for the classic endurance oriented Right Martini V12 fairly quickly.  We decided to call it a day there in order to save some energy for the following two days.

Time zones are on our side here in Hueco.  With a two hour difference in our favor, it is nice to be able to wake up without much struggle at around 6:30 every morning (8:30 our time).  The jump start we get in the morning helps me feel productive and we usually get into the park right around the time they open, which helps keep stress levels down and keeps us from rushing to get everything in order. 

The next day we woke up early and made our way into the park.  The fatigue from driving for two days set in and I felt pretty tired, but I was psyched to try El Techo de los Tres B, a nice V11 at the bottom of North.  After trying it for a while I found out I had to figure out some different beta from the usual bump method that everybody seems to use.  After figuring out a nice heel hook method I was able to piece it together, which is nice.  The conditions were pretty terrible that day with the wind causing it to be extremely cold and miserable, so we called it early.


The next day was much more enjoyable and the wind had calmed down.  We hadn't been to the boulders on top of North mountain yet and decided it would be cool to check them out.  After warming up I did the classic Daily Dick Dose V7 and started working on Alma Blanca V12/13.  I thought I was getting close, but have since decided that it is close to impossible for me to do.  I have spent two seperate sessions on it now and the big move to the lip is insanely difficult for me.  I decided to cut my losses and move on to another problem.

The next day was a rest day and on Thursday we had reservations on North again.  One of my goals for the trip was to put in good flash burns on Diaphanous Sea V11 and Free Willy V10.  I decided that I felt decent enough after a rest day to try both.  After a quick warm up we walked uphill to Diaphanous and I was able to do it on my first attempt!  Perfectly my style!  One down, one to go!  We made our way to Free Willy and I was able to dispatch on my first attempt again!  A good day for sure!  Next, we made our way over to the Martini Cave again so I could try Right Martini.  I made a couple good links from the start but wasn't able to piece it together.

I was feeling tired the next day but wanted to try and finish Right Martini.  On my first go I fell making the big move into the hueco.  Not a good sign.  On my next attempt I was able to make it past the hueco and fell on the traverse section toward the end of the climb.  PUMPED!  26 moves seems like a lot considering I've been climbing on 10 move boulder problems for the last 6 months.  I rested for a while and gave it another attempt, making it through the lower crux section and the traverse section I managed to pump myself off of on the previous attempt.  I shook out for a second and moved toward the V3 outro section, only to pump off the LAST move getting onto the headwall.  Devestation!  I rested again and gave what would be my last attempt for the day.  I was completely wrecked and my forearms felt like jello.  I barely managed to make it into the hueco in the middle of the problem and eventually found my way to the top of the boulder!  So happy I didn't fall on the end again!  I'm really psyched to have done such a classic problem, and one that I've wanted to do since I saw it in Sessions about 6 years ago.

The last two days have been nice as well.  The temps are a bit warm in the afternoon, however, the caves here are cool and dry.  Over the last couple of days I've been able to do a couple other problems, including Anal Intruder #10 V11, as well as make progress on some harder lines that I would love to be able to do in the next two weeks.  Tomorrow we are heading back to North, where I'm going to TRY and take it easy because we have a tour set for Tuesday in the East Spur.  I have yet to go into the back country and there are several problems I have my sights set on.  SO PSYCHED!!!

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