Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Hound Ear's Complete

The first event of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series at Hound Ears, NC was a blast!  The weather cooperated and it was a great day to be out and about.  After a not so restful nights sleep (I get anxious) we were off to the boulders where the crowds dispersed throughout the field. 

After a quick warmup Jimmy, Voges, Daniel Beall, and myself walked over to Mr. Thick V9 and we were all able to do it quickly. Next on the list was Pitbull V9, a problem I hadn't done in the past.  I was able to do this one quickly as well and topped out on my second attempt of the day.  It was then on to the backside of the same boulder to Nudging It V10/11.  I had figured out a good sequence on the short, tricky boulder last year and was able to repeat first go this year.

Next on the list was Random Man V11.  Random Man was my main goal for the trip.  I had gotten shut down last year and was really excited to come back and see how things went.  I was able to do this one second attempt too, which is fortunate because it is quite sharp and spending a lot of time on it could have been treacherous for my skin. 

Fuc Yo V9 was next on the list.  After a couple failed attempts at the sit, The Crusher V10, I decided to cut my losses and just do the stand.  Temperatures were starting to rise at that point and the edges were feeling worse with every attempt.


Matt Paden - frixtion.blogspot.com


The next problem, Rapid Fire V9, was also a new problem for me.  Again, I was able to do this one fairly quickly, but I could definitely feel the fatigue starting to set in. Unfortunately, I was only five problems in and had another five left before I could call it quits. 

The next two problems, Brady Problem V9 and Pimp Trick Gangsta Click V10, were also new to me.  I was able to do Brady Problem quickly and was also able to make a flash of P.T.G.C.  At this point I was completely wrecked.  I have never had my muscles cramp up like they did after these two problems.  Not only were my arms and body completely shot, but my legs started to cramp up with every step I took up the steep hill that houses the boulders. Heinous. 

Jimmy and I took off toward Oral Resume V10 next.  I had tried the problem briefly the previous year but was unsuccessful.  After watching Jimmy cruise through the problem I really tried to focus in and just get the problem over with.  Halfway through the problem my hand dry fired off a hold as I was reaching for one of the last good edges.  NEGATIVE.  My next attempt I found myself at the big outro move to a flat rail. 

I set up, tried as hard as I could, and came up SHORT.  I rebated back to the two edges I was on and tried again.  This time I briefly paused with two fingers on the rail and tried to transfer my weight over to that side, only to have everything fail.  I had reached the point of failure and my body was done.  No more. Game over. 

I had two more spots on my scorecard to fill in and I was way too tired to try Oral Resume again.  I figured the best thing to do is to do two problems I knew I could do.  I had done The Tourist V9 and Jaws 2 Direct V8 last year and ended up finishing off my card with them.  It was an awesome feeling knowing I had filled my card and that I didn't need to climb another rock the rest of the day.

It was a great day of rock climbing and it was awesome to climb with so many people that were excited to just be out trying hard.   My friends Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges ended up taking 1st and 3rd places, respectively, and I managed to come in 2nd.  

I had one of the best days of rock climbing I think I've ever had this past weekend.  Its nice to see that all the hard work over the last 8 months or so is paying off.  The weather here in the southeast is dropping everyday I can't wait to start trying all the problems I have on my list for the season!  Plans for a few trips are in the making and I'll be in HUECO in 53 DAYS!!!

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