Thursday, April 22, 2010

Catchin' Up

Whoa!  Once again I apologize for the lack of updates.  The past couple of weeks have been very busy for me as far as school goes.  The semester is winding down and there have been a lot of deadlines that needed to be met.

A while back I started seriously training for climbing.  When I lived in Illinois there were times when I'd get into a little training cycle, but it'd usually only last for a couple weeks.  I've been motivated enough lately to actually stick with my little training program and I can already see the gains from the long hours in the gym!  Before I actually started physically doing anything I made an effort to understand the basics of training for rock climbing.  The biggest source of information has easily been Ben Moon's moonclimbing.com.  The site has tons of information about training and if you are looking for a source that is full of insight and experience then I would recommend checking it out for yourself.

One of the best pieces of advice I have gotten off of the site is to write out a list of goals.  These goals are meant to help you stay motivated and to give you a way to measure progress.  Another thing that I have found to be really helpful is to keep a training log...nothing super in depth but it is enough to allow you to look back and see where you were a week ago, a month ago, two months ago, etc.

I took it upon myself to keep a little training log and I find it to be really useful in identifying my weaknesses and helping me target areas that I need to work on.  Also, it is a good way to ensure that you keep mixing things up.  I feel like getting stuck into a single routine is something that is all too easy to do and that mixing things up will keep your mind and your body on point.

When I started my little training log I didn't intend to share it with anybody, let alone post it on the blog here.  However, since I haven't posted anything in about a month I thought I'd share it to let people see what I've been up to.  Again,  its not that in depth, but it'll give you a basic idea of what I've been spending my time doing.  Like I said, I wasn't planning on sharing this with anybody so a lot of what is written down is only going to make sense to me...sorry for the confusion in advance.


Senya



TRAINING LOG


Short Term Goal
1-5-9 on campus board
2 one arm pullups
stronger lockoffs-deep lockoffs-lock off further
do the hard taped boulders in the gym

Mid Term Goals
Qualify for Finals at Mammut in SLC
Do SoCo and SoCo right
Flash v11
Climb v13 or v14 in hueco

Long Term Goals
Climb v14
Climb 9a sport route
Flash v12


Training Log Key
Slight wall =15-20 degree??
Steep wall=nearly horizontal

First Week or so
Core workout every other day
·      On bar 20 reps L hangs- 1set
o   Moved onto 25 reps
·      On bar 20 reps knees to chest-1 set
·      On bar 10 leg kicks hanging straight, almost 90, 90, full lock off, reverse-1 set
·      On bar 20 reps windshield wipers, knees bent-1 set
o   Moved onto 10 reps knees bent, 5 reps straight legs
·      On bar 10 leg kicks hanging straight, almost 90, 90, full lock off, lower-20 windshield wipers, knees bent-pull up and reverse leg kicks
Bouldering 3 days on, 1 day off, 1 day on, the canyon

2/21 – warm up for an hour, go to campus board, cool down
2/22 – slow warm up, 30 min or so then onto slightly harder problems on slightly overhung wall. Feeling quite tired.  Then onto the steep.  Senya and I taped several hard problems before we even warmed up so we could have something to work on.  They ended up being quite hard, or at least they felt difficult today.  Could be easy when fresh.  Goal was to try and do all the moves on all the problems.  It was successful minus one tensiony move.  Basically went to failure on the steep.  Couldn’t hold on any longer.  I feel like I can climb harder, more days on than I could a week ago.  Core feels stronger. Cooled down for 10-15 minutes and went to do core.
·      Core on Bar
o   20 reps L Hangs-1 set
o   20 reps knees to chest-1set
o   1 set 10 lockoff,leg kick cycle
o   20 reps windshield wipers, knees bent 1 set
o   10 reps windshield wipers, straight legs 1 set
o   10 lockoff, leg kick cycle-15 windshield wipers knees bent-5 straight leg-pull up and reverse leg kicks
o   10 reps L Hangs -½ set
·      Core off Bar
o   Legs elevated 6 inches, back off ground-30 seconds
o   Planks- 20 seconds toes hooked, 10 seconds unhooked, 20 seconds hooked.
·      3 One arm pullups each arm, slow lower
2/24 – felt really good today!  Slow warm up, steadily increasing in difficulty.  After warming up for about an hour and spending some time on the sightly overhung wall (did a few crimpy problems to keep fingers strong) I went to the campus board.  Did the whole routine
·      ladder 1,3,5,7,9 twice
·      ladder 1,4,6,9 twice leading with each arm (4 in total)
·      ladder maximum 1,5,8 (trying for 1,5,9) 3 tries leading with each arm (6 in total)
·      touches 1,4,1,4,1,4,1,4,1  3 times
·      touches 1,5,4,5,4 5,4,5  2 times leading with each arm (4 in total)
Really focused on going slow and controlled.  Felt it in the shoulders on the touches and felt kinda fatigued after the whole workout.  Continued to boulder on the steep trying hard taped problems for a while.  Did the stand of the black.  Felt around v10 from the stand.  Sit will be a little harder.  Got close on the another problem.  Played a little game where we would set a boulder that we thought we could do in 6 min and tried it until time ran out. Rested 5 min, repeat.  Felt like a good workout and it was fun.  Afterwards I cooled down and was done.  Pretty hard session.  Felt good though.  Need to work on jumpy moves on the overhung with body tension.

2/25 – felt really really bad today. Warmed up for a long time and never really got warmed up.  Wasn’t sore though..just foggy headed and felt weak.  Didn’t do much climbing at all.  Tweaked my right middle finger a bit as well when doing a slightly harder warmup problem.  Actually tweaked it on a pinch when I moved off it kinda hard.  Climbed on it a bit more and figured I should probably stay off it for the rest of the day.  I figured I’d salvage the day and do a core workout.  Didn’t have much excitement for that either.  Ended up kinda forcing myself to do some core stuff.  Don’t think I’ll be sore tomorrow but I worked on my lower core doing low L hangs and doing pullups.  Did one arms (5 sets…1 one arm = a set) and lowered slowly.  Felt good in the first couple sets and then got really tired.  Hoping my finger is gonna feel good tomorrow.  Scary!  Easy session.

2/26 – Felt alright today.  Better than yesterday at least.  Warmed up and made one harder problem on the slightly overhung wall, which Senya and I both finished.  We moved onto the steep where Senya made a problem that was really hard for me.  I dunno if I was just tired or if it is not my style or what.  I did it in two sections and am going to try and go back and do it on Monday.  I also tried the full black taped problem.  I did the stand a couple days ago and now I have to do the whole thing.  Even though the beginning is only a couple of moves on good holds it really takes the energy out of me for the ending roof moves.  I think it would be v12 or harder outside.  Compared to vapor lock it is much, much harder.  After that we tried a dumb crimpy line and then I cooled down.  Tired!  Medium session.
2/28 – Climbed at the Alabama boulders.  Felt pretty good.  Still need to work on big moves and pull throughs.  Flashed v8, did two v9’s, and a v10.  All felt pretty chill…starting to feel good?? Maybe?? 
3/1 – Went into the gym and warmed up.  I felt really tired and didn’t have any motivation.  We tore down the box on the 45 and set some boulders.  We have a 45 degree wall again!!!  Sooo psyched! 
3/2 – Set some more boulders on the 45 and climbed on it ALL night. Basically climbed till failure. Felt good today. Had some really good problems.  One project to go back to with a big move to a pinch.  Trying to work on thuggy problems.  Did some core excercises before leaving.
3/4 – Climbed fairly hard today.  I decided to go to the HPRocks comp this weekend so I didn’t want to take it too hard.  Felt good today though!
3/6 – Did the HPRocks Comp today.  Felt really, really good!  Did 24 problems v7 or harder.  God Module felt easy!  Locked down all the holds!  Got so worked…failure for sure. 
3/9 – Felt terrible today.  Basically warmed up and went home.  Need more rest.
3/10- climbed more today but still felt tired.  Did a campus board workout though, and climbed for quite a while afterwards.  TIRED!  Need to rest!  The endurance comp killed me!  Still worked!
3/12 – After another day of rest I finally felt good!  Really slow warm up, which is key! Today was a really long gym session.  Did another campus board exercise and felt really strong. climbed for a long, long time afterwards on the 45.  We’ve been spending all of our time on that wall.  Dunno how good that is.  We should probably switch it up but we’ve just spent so much time on the other walls previously that its hard to do it.  Still working hard at pinches and big moves.  Starting to see results…kinda!  After climbing till basically failure we did a small core workout.  Need to keep doing core!
3/14 – took a rest day and planned on campusing today but ended up just climbing on the 45.  Did some of the harder problems we were working on the previous day.  Mostly pinches again.  Felt alright but things didn’t seem to be clicking.  Medium/hard day
3/16 – took a rest day yesterday even though I wanted to climb because my finger is sore.  It needed time off so I did just that.  felt really bad at the beginning of the session but after about an hour of warming up and 45 minutes of rest I felt good!  I’m thinking that I didn’t feel good to start because I didn’t cool down very well on the last day I climbed.  During the 45 minutes of rest today we threw a bunch of screw on edges on the 45.  We climbed a bunch and taped some hard problems.  The new problems use a lot of edges but still have some pinches and some big moves.  Really good problems that I hope I can do.  We need to set more power problems…hard individual moves. Climbed for 3 or so hours and then did some core workout.  Some on the bar and some on the ground.  I don’t think I’ll be sore from the core tomorrow but I can already feel the rest of my body getting sore.  Hopefully campus tomorrow. Medium-Hard
3/17 – Felt pretty terrible warming up. Pretty much hit the campus board and did core after a bad warm up.  Climbed a little bit afterwards and did an endurance circuit.  Need to start doing a few of those more often.  Got PUMPED!  Medium session
3/19 – Had to rest because I had to start a new job.  Went in today and wasn’t very motivated because nobody else was in the gym to climb with.  I warmed up and played on some harder problems and did one that was probably in the v9 range. Almost did Gucci Gucci V11? problem (bad left hand black pinch to green right pinch).  So close! I think I’m beginning to feel better on bigger moves/jumps…maybe.  Wasn’t all that psyched but ended up doing an alright campus session solo.  Also did the whole one arm pullup routine..3 on each arm…slow on the way down and some core exercises. Medium session
Some Day??? -  felt incredible…did Gucci Gucci v11? really quick and was super solid on it.  Felt really good.  At some point did 1-5-8 every attempt during campus workout. Forgot to update for a while there…did two days of enduro workouts
3-27 – Soco 2nd go today!  PSYCHED to have that one done!
3/30 – felt alright today.  Rested yesterday.  Did Southern Comfort a few days ago.  With the warm weather approaching and after doing a route I feel like route climbing.  Did some bouldering and then did some enduro workouts again.  Climbed on the slightly overhung wall and in the steep for a bit this evening and felt pretty weak on the angle.  Did some core then left.  Medium day
3/31 -  felt tired and a bit sore from yesterday’s session.  Warmed up and started working on problems on the slightly overhung wall.  Did some problems that didn’t suite me that well…some slopers and some shouldery stuff.  Felt alright on them.  Feeling good on this angle again.  Gotta keep switching it up.  Bouldered in the steep afterwards and made some good harder problems…nothing too heinous though…maybe v9/10.  Tried to do some campusing and my skin was hurting so bad that I had to stop.  Did some core on the floor and left.  Medium/hard day.
4/2 – first solo day at the gym during senya’s spring break.  Motivation wasn’t that high because of this and the fact that it was HOT!  Did all the easy problems (under 100 points) in the gym to warm up then did a problem on the slightly overhung wall that was good to warm up the fingers.  Went to try my big move crimp problem that I did a while back in the 45 and couldn’t do it cause I would slip off or my hands would blow off on the bigger moves.  Did it in two sections though.  Then did a campus workout on the bigger rungs and then did some 1,3,5,7,9 on smallest rungs.  I felt much better on the smaller rungs than I thought I would.  Did some lockoffs (one and two arms) on the jugs, did a bunch of core on the ground, tried senya’s circuit in the steep (got to 60 something I think??) then cooled down and left. Hard day. Skin hurts.
4/3 – was kinda sore today…abs are tired.  motivation was once again pretty low.  The thought of hueco and the red are pushing me though.  Wasn’t as hot as yesterday but it was still warm.  Warmed up and felt pretty heavy but then jumped on some harder problems that this guy steve showed me and kinda jumpstarted my body.  Did a couple problems on the slight and then a couple on the 45.  Then I campused…half the exercise was on the big rungs and half were on the smaller. Big rungs were 1-5-8 (felt good on this today) and 1-5-4-5.  Small rungs were 1-3-5-7-9, 1-4-6-9, 1-4-1 - Skin hurts still.  Did a circuit plus 40 moves (100 moves in total) in the 45 and cooled down.  Medium day.
4/6 - Rested for two days and back at it again today with the solo sesh.  Still HOT…we skipped spring.  Felt good warming up today and it carried over throughout the day.  Did a couple of harder problems on the slight and then moved on to the steep where I did one hard problem.   Did a campus workout again. Half of it was on the smallest rungs and the other half was on the bigger ones.  Felt really good campusing today.  Did 1-5-8 all 3 tries with both arms. Felt like I could almost do 1-5-9. Almost.   Hopefully soon.  The bigger rungs feel so big compared to the smallest ones.  Skin is still acting up.  Started to hurt after the campus sesh.  Randy showed up and we tried another problem in the steep but skin hurt too bad so we went to 45.  Did his crimpy problem and felt like I could just lock holds down.  Good feeling.  Then tried the problem Steve showed me with the big move to the fun ball.  Did the move and worked different sequence for the bottom with big moves.  Really tried to do big moves today.  Did one arm routine-3 with each arm- and cooled down.  Medium hard day.
4/7 – warmed up pretty quickly today.  Felt pretty tired but it wasn’t as hot as yesterday so it was all good.  Did some problems on the slight, moved on and tried to do some big move/dyno problems in the 45 before my skin was too wrecked to keep going.  Did some core and called it a day. Easy day.
4-9 – warmed up quickly today and felt good.  Did my mini project on the slight quickly and moved onto the 45.  Did two or three projects in there today and felt strong.  Motiviation is much higher with others around and today I was alone.  Left feeling hungry and slightly tired.  Medium-hard day.
4-12 – I don’t really remember this day…I am logging an entry a couple days later.  i think it was the first day back with Senya and we did some problems in the 45.  Felt okay. Medium day
4-14 – Warmed up and did some problems with Senya on the slight then campus sesh.  Did some problems in the 45 again.  Skin started hurting later. medium-hard day
4-15 – Warmed up and felt heavy.  Did some easier problems on the slight, did one of my problems in the steep, then back to 45.  Did the project from last night first go then did a hard problem with the left hand white crimp to the good big blue sloper thing.  Felt v10/11.  Then did another crimpy problem that was probably in the same range.  Felt CRIMPY!  Tried some other problems but was definitely tired.  Did some core then called it a day. Hard Day.
4-16 – felt tired today but wanted to try and climb anyways.  Need to stay strong more days on.  Did some boulders and then did some core.  Did two enduro routes (100 moves each) then left. Easy day. Feel tired
4-19 – felt good today and was able to warm up quickly.  Did some easier problems on the slight and then went to the steep and did a hard boulder in there weighing in around 9 or so. Went to the 45 and came up with some hard boulders problems and a project.  Did a bunch of fingery stuff. Started to feel hungry and tired so I bailed.  Medium hard day.  I’m 22 today…old man status.
4-20 – felt alright today.  Woke up really late/noon.  Warmed up pretty quickly and started trying a problem in the steep.  Did the stand and then got bored and went to the campus boards and did the routine.  Things are starting to get easier on the campus boards and I can do 1-5-8 everytime.  Got really close to 1-5-9 today.  Just a little bit more work and it’ll be done.  Bouldered in the 45 with Avery and did some cool problems…nothing too heinous.  Tried my mini proj a little bit again…sustained power endurance.  Linked from in the middle to near the top.  Close. Did some core then left.  Medium hard day.
4-21 – felt tired today for sure but was still able to warm up rather quickly.  Made up a hard problem in the steep and worked on it for a little while until I did it.  Climbed in the 45 the rest of the day.  Tried to just do a lot of problems because I was tired and my fingers were a little sore. Climbed for like 4 or 5 hours.  Haven’t climbed this hard 3 days on in a while...mental battle with hurting skin.  Hard day.
4-22 – I woke up sore from yesterday’s session but was pretty determined to head in to the gym today anyways.  Solo session today so I worked on endurance and did core exercises.  My goal was to do 1000 moves in sets of 100 moves.  Started on the vertical wall, moved to the slight, then did 3 sets in the 45 before my skin was hurting too bad to continue.  Endurance needs some work but there’s no rush...its not the focus at the moment…it’d just be nice to have a decent endurance base for when I need it.    Medium day.  Two rest days starting tomorrow.

8 comments:

  1. Awesome entry Brad. Very insightful. Thanks !
    eb

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  2. Glad you enjoyed it!

    Pat- I'm building up to those 12 oz curls...I'm at 8 right now. Soon though...very soon

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  3. You know how the second digit always burns after too much gym work?

    Question: How do you adress the skin issue, so you can keep training hard in the gym? Filing? Avoiding "biter" jugs? Gloves?

    Thanks,
    Brooks

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  4. i definitely avoid the 'sharp' jugs and i try to file down my skin pretty regularly. i found that the campus board is the thing that really gets my skin. it seems to roll the calluses over themselves, which is uncomfortable. also, my buddy gave me a tip and said to soak your hands in ice water at night....seems to help.

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  5. you need to come to chatty so that i can train with you... i have some of the same goals as you... minus the climb v13 or v14... i'd like to do a v10 and v11... and make it the finals in Mammut @ SLC...
    you should come down every so often... set some... train and what not!
    and we should go to hp40 and strong on slopers... climbing in the heat HELPS! that's how jimmy got strong on them...
    let me know!

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  6. So, hows the 1-5-9 coming? Jamie Emerson posted about that and how its the "new true test" in his opinion of a super hard climber. I have a feeling you already qualify, but the concept of doing a 1-5-9 is just pretty mind boggling. let me know if it goes down.

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  7. 1-5-9 was super close a few weeks ago. however, i've been without a campus board for a bit now...should have one again soon.

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