Friday, March 12, 2010


For the last couple weeks the majority of my climbing time has been spent in the gym.  After making reservations for Hueco in November all my focus has gone to ensuring that I am in top form when I finally 9 months.  That's only 37 weeks!  HA.  If I've run into you in the past month I've certainly let you know how excited I am to get there.

Fred Nicole-Esperanza
Photo:Mary Gabrieli via Wolverine Publishing

Climbing for me has never really been about training.  I generally just find that climbing is enough.  However, I've decided to actually put some effort into training for once and see how it pays off.  Now, I'm not saying that all my efforts are going into training.  I'm just kind of adding some training programs into my climbing sessions.  I've always been interested in training and have read a lot of material on techniques/programs/exercises in the past but it all seemed very complex and not that much fun.  Everybody seems to have a different method as well, which makes things even more confusing.  I've taken information from two main sources, Moon Climbing and Metolius Climbing and it has helped tremendously.  The majority of the exercises I do come straight from Moon's articles on campus boards.  With their terrible weather in England they had time to hone their programs pretty well!

One thing I have to say is that the hardest part of the training so far has been deciding to actually start and having motivation to stick with it.  A big motivator for me is having someone else to push me and to keep me amped, and my buddy Senya Iaryguine helps me do just that.  It's really nice to have somebody else who's psyched on getting strong and who's psyched to actually make the effort to do so.    On top of that, we both have completely different styles climbing wise, which is convenient for working your weaknesses.

Along with the campus boards I've been doing quite a bit of core training.  This part is not so fun but I have already seen huge gains in core strength and it's only been a couple of weeks.

What I've found to work really well (for now at least) is to do two campus sessions a week (only on days right after a rest day) on top of all the bouldering in the gym as well as 3 or 4 core workouts a week. When reading about training, the only thing that sounds appealing is the getting stronger part.  In all reality, it is actually quite fun and I really enjoy the discipline aspect of it all.  Yesterday was a rest day so today I'm heading back into the gym....lame as it sounds I'm actually pretty its been raining for three days and there looks to be another day of it on the way.

On a side note...Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges are killing it in Bishop during their one-week stay!  Check out their blogs for the lowdown...impressive to say the least!


  1. Keep with the training, man. I've been training for a while now in preparation for going to Hueco in a couple of days, and I've never felt more psyched. It really enhances motivation, and it's awesome to have someone to do it with.

  2. If you haven't already, check out Dave Macleod's page. Its the best climbing/training site i've found. Very scientific which makes me fell like im doing something right.

  3. Yeah I've dabbled on his website a little bit. Sounds like the guy knows what's up! thanks for the link.