Monday, January 4, 2010

The Shield

Yesterday I made the trip back to LRC so I could try and finish up The Shield V12.  It was a cold one...a high of 33.  The temperature combined with the low humidity created perfect conditions.

The day started off on a good foot with Hayley unexpectedly sending her project...the classic Jerry's Kids V7!  Unfortunately I don't have video or photos of the problem because I was busy shuffling pads, but its all good...very proud of her for finishing it off so quickly!  NICE.

We then made our way to the back where we threw down pads so Sarah could put in some work on Deception V7.  She got agonizingly close, yet again, and will do it soon.

We shuffled the pads underneath The Shield so I could give a go at it. My first go felt terrible.  I had been sitting just a little bit too long and my fingers were frozen.  After shaking off the failed attempt and brushing the holds, I pulled on and made my way through the problem's "crux"....a shouldery gaston move to a slopey runnel.  This move wasn't really an issue for me like I thought it would.  However, the last move to the positive exit hold had stopped me cold on the previous round of attempts.  I worked my way up to the last move,  made the move to the good hold and was topping out before I knew what had happened.

This boulder problem is a step up for my personal climbing.  A year ago I couldn't touch this boulder problem and this year I managed to do it fairly quickly.  I feel as though I have progressed...not just physically but mentally as well.  The Shield has always been intimidating to me and I honestly thought it would be years before I'd be able to pull this one off.  PSYCHED!

Afterwards we walked around the corner so Senya could try and finish off Biggie Shorty Extension V12.  He couldn't have gotten closer, falling off the LAST move.  It will go next time for sure!

Here is a video I threw together of The Shield...the lighting is quite poor but it is better than nothing.

The Shield from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

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