Saturday, January 30, 2010

Biggie Shorty Extension

Here is a quick video I threw together of Senya Iaryguine doing the Biggie Shorty Extension V12 at Little Rock City.  Enjoy!


Biggie Shorty Extension V12 from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Southern Slang...

Over the last week I have been working with Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges and Brant Hawkins from Projekt Media on a little video about bouldering in the southeast.  Not only was I fortunate enough to spend the majority of my week climbing outside, I was able to visit a new area and do a couple of new problems. First up was a brilliant problem called Lord of the Dance V11 on the Riverdance boulder.  Lord of the Dance is a low start to the well known Riverdance V8/9 and climbs out a roof on amazing pinches and edges into Riverdance.  I was able to do this quickly and Brant was there to get some footage.  Jimmy also put on quite the show by quickly dispatching Power Patch Low V11 and repeating Western Gold V11 first go! Ridiculous really...

The next day we went to an area I hadn't been to yet just outside of Chattanooga.  The setting was amazing and the boulders were sick!  I managed to do Babe V8,  Voges and I did the classic Damn Yankees V9, and I was able to do the f.a. of Southern Slang V11 with Jimmy and Brion doing it right afterwards for the 2nd and 3rd.


Damn Yankees V9


Kevin Todd on Southern Slang last year


Right now I'm hanging out in GA waiting for the weather to turn good again.  Who knows how long this snow and rain is going to last for...

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Jonny Copp & Micah Dash Inspire Award

Jonny Copp & Micah Dash Inspire Award

Jonny Copp & Micah Dash were two of America’s leading alpine climbers, adventuring to the farthest corners of the world in search of first ascents in the purest of style. Jonny & Micah believed the summit meant something, but style was everything.

Sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardware & Patagonia, the Copp-Dash Inspire Award has been formed, to support climbers who choose to follow a similar path, both in life and in the mountains.
The fund’s goal is to assist climbers before, during & after expeditions with financial grants & multimedia instruction to help empower them to share their current & future adventures with a wider audience.

https://www.americanalpineclub.org/grant/coppdashinspireaward

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Alabama Bouldering

Rain. Rain. Rain.  I'm contemplating building an arc because I'm pretty sure the southeast is about to flood.  From So Ill to Chatty, wet boulders have been the theme lately.  I drove up to Chatty Friday morning to meet up with some folks and to see if anything in the area would be dry.  A bunch of us met up at Dayton only to find the river raging and the roof (our best bet for dry rock) to be dripping.  We sat underneath the roof for a good 15 minutes wishing that our blank stares would dry out the rock.  Unfortunately we aren't magicians so we bailed, drove back to Chatt, and had a nice gym sesh.  Due to a minor cold, I hadn't climbed since our So Ill trip on the previous weekend, so it was good to just be out of the house moving around.

The plan for the next day was to head to Alabama in search of some dry boulders.  Nathan Drolet and I met up with Nate Draughn, Jimmy Webb, and Brian Clevenger in the A.M. We loaded pads, piled in the car, and were on the way.  Conditions were getting clearer and things looked more and more promising the further away from Chatty we got.  We still weren't quite sure how great it was going to be when we parked the car but as we started hiking to the boulders the attitude shifted and Jimmy (who's basically a walking guidebook) chimed in "Oh man...its dry.  Its gonna be dry.  Its totally gonna be dry."  And he was right!  I think we were all really relieved as soon as we saw that things were good to go and we quickly got to warming up.

The day went well for everybody.  Jimmy put up an amazing compression start to an existing V5 and called it 50 Words for Crazy V8.  Really cool moves on some rad holds.  Nate Draughn, Nate Drolet
(who flashed!), and myself repeated the problem for its first handful of ascents.  Brian Clevenger, whom I hadn't climbed with before yesterday, did a couple V9's and made them look EASY....basically just levitated.  I felt good yesterday as well and managed to do three fantastic problems;  Underworld V10, Dog Laudnam V10, and Hustle and Flow V10.  Jimmy threw together a little video from yesterday's trip.  Check it out below and don't forget to check out his blog... http://jimmywebb.blogspot.com/ .

Jimmy just recently joined La Sportiva's climbing team and I think he is a great addition to an amazing company.  La Sportiva is making the best shoes out there and I am a true believer in their products.  I know that I wouldn't be nearly as confident in my foot placements without them and I can guarantee that I wouldn't have done half the boulder problems and routes I've done if I hadn't been wearing Sportivas.  That's the TRUTH!  Their shoes are on a different level and if you haven't checked them out I think you owe it to yourself to do so.  You'll be happy you did!  Go to Sportiva.com and don't forget to check out the La Sportiva Live section of their website to see what's up!



La Sportiva athlete Brad Weaver from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Back from So Ill

So our So Ill trip wasn't all that grand.  On Saturday morning we woke up to a heavy fog looming over Jackson Falls.  Hayley and I quickly made breakfast and hopped in the car to meet up with the rest of the crew at the Holy Boulders.  Things weren't looking that great as we pulled into the parking lot...the ground was wet and it was quite humid.  We figured we'd make the best of it though and went to see just how bad things were going to be.  Our fears had come true.  We had driven 6+ hours to climb on wet rocks.  NEGATIVE!  After a soggy warmup session on the classic Mollusc we headed up to the rest of the boulders to find everything else in the same condition.  We figured wet rock is better than no rock and we proceeded to throw ourselves at the slippery boulders, much to no avail.  Jimmy was able to do Trillium V9 after some effort though so our efforts weren't a complete waste.

The next day was much better, though still a bit damp.  The crew couldn't complain though because conditions were incredible compared to the previous day.  Brion was able to hook up Trillium V9 in a couple of goes, I failed, Jimmy killed Michael Jordan V11, Brion got agonizingly close and fell off the top out, and that's pretty much how the weekend went.

I made some progress on a couple of boulder problems and I am really excited to make my way back when the conditions aren't so damp.

On a side note I am looking forward to spending some time at Jackson Falls this spring.  The Falls is like home to me...I basically learned how to climb there.  While walking around The Falls on Sunday morning I forgot how awesome the routes are and how much potential still exists.  There are a few unbolted lines that I've had my eye on for a couple of years now and I am excited to get back with a drill in hand.  Yeaaahhh.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

So ILL!!!

Yesterday was a nice day out at LRC.  Senya finished up Biggie Shorty Extension V12, I finished up Power of Amida V10, and Jimmy was able to hook up BERT V11 in a few tries.

Tomorrow we are rollin up to So Ill with an amped crew so it should be an awesome weekend.  I haven't been back to Illinois to climb since I lived there almost 2 years ago so I am excited to see how my old projects feel.  Yup...

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Kinda Uneventful

Not too much happening since I last checked in.  I've made a couple of trips to LRC since my last post but nothing major has been happening.  I've tried the infamous Barndoor 2000 project on two different days now and it is something I am quite psyched on.  The boulder problem really boils down to two moves.  One involves a high foot with a strange right hand gastone that you have to lock down in order to gain a decent slopey edge.  From there you have to match hands and make a HUGE toss to a terrible slot/edge.  I have fallen touching the bottom of that hold twice now.  I really need to get better at jumping...I am in no way close to doing the problem but it is something cool to work on.

The other problem I have tried a little bit is a nice, tall V10 called Power of Amida.  I got close to doing it last trip but we ran out of time.  I'm hoping to make something happen tomorrow when I head up for the day.

There is some talk about a So Ill trip this weekend so I am really excited about that possibility...we will see.

Monday, January 4, 2010

The Shield

Yesterday I made the trip back to LRC so I could try and finish up The Shield V12.  It was a cold one...a high of 33.  The temperature combined with the low humidity created perfect conditions.

The day started off on a good foot with Hayley unexpectedly sending her project...the classic Jerry's Kids V7!  Unfortunately I don't have video or photos of the problem because I was busy shuffling pads, but its all good...very proud of her for finishing it off so quickly!  NICE.

We then made our way to the back where we threw down pads so Sarah could put in some work on Deception V7.  She got agonizingly close, yet again, and will do it soon.

We shuffled the pads underneath The Shield so I could give a go at it. My first go felt terrible.  I had been sitting just a little bit too long and my fingers were frozen.  After shaking off the failed attempt and brushing the holds, I pulled on and made my way through the problem's "crux"....a shouldery gaston move to a slopey runnel.  This move wasn't really an issue for me like I thought it would.  However, the last move to the positive exit hold had stopped me cold on the previous round of attempts.  I worked my way up to the last move,  made the move to the good hold and was topping out before I knew what had happened.

This boulder problem is a step up for my personal climbing.  A year ago I couldn't touch this boulder problem and this year I managed to do it fairly quickly.  I feel as though I have progressed...not just physically but mentally as well.  The Shield has always been intimidating to me and I honestly thought it would be years before I'd be able to pull this one off.  PSYCHED!

Afterwards we walked around the corner so Senya could try and finish off Biggie Shorty Extension V12.  He couldn't have gotten closer, falling off the LAST move.  It will go next time for sure!


Here is a video I threw together of The Shield...the lighting is quite poor but it is better than nothing.



The Shield from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

2010!

So our trip to Rocktown to celebrate New Years was cancelled due to terrible weather.  Hayley and I woke up early on Thursday to make the drive and decided about halfway there that there was no way things were going to be dry...it had rained all night and it was very foggy.  So we bailed.

Yesterday, however, we decided to start the year off right and went climbing at LRC for the day.  I hadn't been back to the area since the last Triple Crown Comp and I was excited to try some of my old projects as well as try my hand at some new ones.

The Chattanoogan V12 is the line that has received most of my attention this season.  I'd tried it for three or four days prior to yesterday to no avail.  The thing was basically shutting me down...until yesterday anyways.

My first go I felt really good and fell after latching the hold exiting the crux...a crux in itself really...  My next go I did the same.  I rested for five minutes and gave it another go...this time I hit the hold perfectly and was able to finish it up!  I am very happy to have this one done and it was a great way to start off the year.



The Chattanoogan from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.


Afterwards we headed over to The Law so Senya could try and finish it up.  He got close but didn't quite manage to put it together.  Next time!  We then headed over to Dragonslayer V12, where I once again got taught a lesson.  Hayley then went on to do Mother Thrutch Low V5 with the quickness and Sarah got SUPER close to doing Deception!  Nice one gals!

Next on my list was to try The Shield V12 again.  I had tried it very little in the past and have always been kind of intimidated by it.  Yesterday though, I ended up falling going to the good hold post crux on three out of my four tries...but then I split a tip.  Needless to say I'm psyched to get back to try and finish it off tomorrow!