Saturday, December 25, 2010

Hueco Video

I put together a video from my trip to Hueco and have posted it below.  I was pretty lazy with the camera during our trip but still managed to get footage of three problems.  Hope you enjoy!

Hueco Trip from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Back Home

After a long 26 hour drive we have arrived safely back in Atlanta.  Hueco was awesome and I can't wait to get back next year.  I'm taking a few days off from climbing for the holidays and the rest is much welcomed.  I feel like I've been on the go constantly since February and it will be nice to have some down time to recover physically and mentally  from the last few months of training and school work.  I had enough time today to throw together a little video of a problem I did a while back in Laurel Falls, Tennesee called Stankins V11, which I've posted below.  I'm in the process of going through what little footage I have from Hueco as well.  I'll be sure to post it on here when its finished.  Happy holidays everyone!

Stankins V11 from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Hueco Update #4

We have two days left in Hueco.   Over the last few days I've been fortunate enough to be able to climb Full Monty V12, Barefoot on Sacred Ground V11, The Flame V11, and Full Service V10.  I had a nice blog piece written but blogger decided it was best to just delete it. SUPER psyched.  I don't remember exactly what I wrote and I don't have the patience to rewrite it so I'll just post some photos for you to enjoy....ridiculous.

Hayley on Baby Martini V6

Brian Hedrick on Right Martini V12

Brian Hedrick on Right Martini V12

Monday, December 13, 2010

Hueco Update #3

Another couple of days have passed here in Hueco. Time seems to be flying by and even though we have a week left, it seems that things are winding down. I find myself having to be somewhat selective on problems I try now so I don't end up getting in over my head with several projects.

Voges and Jimmy got into town on Friday, and on Saturday Voges and I went up to Bleeding Brothers V12 to see if we could do anything on the problem. I ended up flailing but Voges sent in quick fashion. Nice!

Voges on Bleeding Brothers V12

Voges on Bleeding Brothers V12

Afterwards we met up with Jimmy in the Martini Cave to try Esperanza. I've tried the problem a couple times already and I feel like if I had two weeks to dedicate to the boulder than I might be able to piece it together. Its pretty cool trying Esperanza because it feels like how The Womb at Rocktown felt to me 3 years ago. I would love to do the problem one day and its awesome to even be able to try it.

Trying Esperanza - Hayley's Photo

Yesterday we went to East where Voges nearly did Slashface. He will send soon for sure. We made our way to Full Service V10 and Full Throttle V13 at the end of the day. I was psyched to be able to do Full Service quickly and Jimmy, Brian Antheunisse, and I put in work on Full Throttle. We are heading back at the end of the week and I'm sure there will be a take down.

Tomorrow we are heading to the Spur again to try Nagual V13. Brian Antheunisse was SUPER close the last time we were out there, falling going to the jug at the lip. Voges and I have yet to try it so we are PSYCHED! My fingers are sweating just thinking about it.

Brian Antheunisse on Nagual V13 - Hayley's Photo

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Hueco Update #2

I love this place. The climbing just gets better and better. Its awesome hanging out with cool people at night and climbing boulders during the day. Today and tomorrow are rest days for Hayley and I. In the last couple of days I have managed to climb a couple more cool problems including a flash of Tequila Sunrise V12, a flash of Power of Landjager V11, as well as a send of Crown of Aragorn V13 in just over an hour! SO HAPPY! I have hardly any video from my trip so far, but here are a few photos Hayley and Adam Johnson snapped.

Power of Landjager V11 - Hayley's photo

Power of Landjager V11 - Hayley's photo
Tequila Sunrise V12 - Adam Johnson photo

Tequila Sunrise V12 - Adam Johnson photo

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Hueco Update #1

Its hard to believe it has been a week since Hayley and I arrived in Hueco.  The climbing here is simply amazing.  There are so many boulder problems here and our three week stay doesn't even begin to allow us to see everything Hueco has to offer.  We've climbed 6 out of 8 days so far and I've been able to knock a few problems off of my to-do list.

On our first day we did a lot of exploring on North.  While searching out boulders I was able to flash two classic problems, Power of Silence V10 and Chablanke V11.  Power of Silence is one of my favorite problems so far and it was nice to be able to cross a problem off of my lifetime ticklist.  We made our way to the Martini Cave at the end of the day and I was able to figure out the beta for the classic endurance oriented Right Martini V12 fairly quickly.  We decided to call it a day there in order to save some energy for the following two days.

Time zones are on our side here in Hueco.  With a two hour difference in our favor, it is nice to be able to wake up without much struggle at around 6:30 every morning (8:30 our time).  The jump start we get in the morning helps me feel productive and we usually get into the park right around the time they open, which helps keep stress levels down and keeps us from rushing to get everything in order. 

The next day we woke up early and made our way into the park.  The fatigue from driving for two days set in and I felt pretty tired, but I was psyched to try El Techo de los Tres B, a nice V11 at the bottom of North.  After trying it for a while I found out I had to figure out some different beta from the usual bump method that everybody seems to use.  After figuring out a nice heel hook method I was able to piece it together, which is nice.  The conditions were pretty terrible that day with the wind causing it to be extremely cold and miserable, so we called it early.

The next day was much more enjoyable and the wind had calmed down.  We hadn't been to the boulders on top of North mountain yet and decided it would be cool to check them out.  After warming up I did the classic Daily Dick Dose V7 and started working on Alma Blanca V12/13.  I thought I was getting close, but have since decided that it is close to impossible for me to do.  I have spent two seperate sessions on it now and the big move to the lip is insanely difficult for me.  I decided to cut my losses and move on to another problem.

The next day was a rest day and on Thursday we had reservations on North again.  One of my goals for the trip was to put in good flash burns on Diaphanous Sea V11 and Free Willy V10.  I decided that I felt decent enough after a rest day to try both.  After a quick warm up we walked uphill to Diaphanous and I was able to do it on my first attempt!  Perfectly my style!  One down, one to go!  We made our way to Free Willy and I was able to dispatch on my first attempt again!  A good day for sure!  Next, we made our way over to the Martini Cave again so I could try Right Martini.  I made a couple good links from the start but wasn't able to piece it together.

I was feeling tired the next day but wanted to try and finish Right Martini.  On my first go I fell making the big move into the hueco.  Not a good sign.  On my next attempt I was able to make it past the hueco and fell on the traverse section toward the end of the climb.  PUMPED!  26 moves seems like a lot considering I've been climbing on 10 move boulder problems for the last 6 months.  I rested for a while and gave it another attempt, making it through the lower crux section and the traverse section I managed to pump myself off of on the previous attempt.  I shook out for a second and moved toward the V3 outro section, only to pump off the LAST move getting onto the headwall.  Devestation!  I rested again and gave what would be my last attempt for the day.  I was completely wrecked and my forearms felt like jello.  I barely managed to make it into the hueco in the middle of the problem and eventually found my way to the top of the boulder!  So happy I didn't fall on the end again!  I'm really psyched to have done such a classic problem, and one that I've wanted to do since I saw it in Sessions about 6 years ago.

The last two days have been nice as well.  The temps are a bit warm in the afternoon, however, the caves here are cool and dry.  Over the last couple of days I've been able to do a couple other problems, including Anal Intruder #10 V11, as well as make progress on some harder lines that I would love to be able to do in the next two weeks.  Tomorrow we are heading back to North, where I'm going to TRY and take it easy because we have a tour set for Tuesday in the East Spur.  I have yet to go into the back country and there are several problems I have my sights set on.  SO PSYCHED!!!

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Flagyl Vid

I was cruising through my usual climbing sites, blogs, etc. and stumbled upon a little video of Flagyl in Boone, NC.  Thanks Dalen!

Hueco bound in 2 days!!!  So PSYCHED!

Brad Weaver Flashing Flagyl v10 from Dalen Gray on Vimeo.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

6 Days

The long wait for our departure to Hueco is coming to a close.  Its crazy to think about how the anticipation for this trip began in February, some 37 weeks ago, and now we are within a week away from leaving! 

The last week or two have been non stop as I try to finish up the semester before leaving next Friday morning.  Technically the semester isn't finished for another 2 and a half weeks, but there is no way I'm doing school work while I'm in Texas, so I'm having to bust out a serious amount of work.  Having to put so much effort and energy into school a week or two before leaving has definitely left me a bit mentally drained.  At the moment my focus isn't really on climbing, but on school.  However, as I start to knock out assignments and as my to-do list dwindles, I can feel the anticipation start to build back up. 

It seems like there are going to be quite a few people from the southeast in Hueco between now and Christmas, so it'll be cool to know people while we are out there.  Its always nice to have a strong southeast presence when you are on a climbing trip. 

6 DAYS!!!  CAN'T WAIT!!!

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Horse Pens 40 Wrap Up

The Horse Pens 40 comp was a success and I ended up taking 3rd place in open!  I had my best climbing day I've ever had at HP and even managed to do a few new boulder problems...something that doesn't happen often for me on a comp day.  Although I had a good day, my friends Jimmy and Brion had even better ones, who took 1st and 2nd respectively.  It was extremely impressive to watch them both on what had to be the record for best climbing day at Horse Pens.

My ticklist for the day:

Pegmato V9
Five-O V9
Cadillac Thrills V9
Skeletor V10
Super Slider V10
Hot n Tot V10
Balrog V10
Great Dane V10
The Process V10
God Module V11

It was a really fun day hanging out in great weather at one of the best bouldering areas in the country.  Every time I go back I remember there are still problems that I haven't done yet and I get the itch to head back. The weather is a bit warm at the moment but I'm hoping to get back before I leave for Hueco in 2 weeks! 

Friday, November 5, 2010

HP 40

Long time since I've updated, I know. Last week I was able to get out to Dayton for the day and was able to finish off Stankins V11, first go of the season. It felt really good to do this line so quickly this year because it felt really hard for me last year. I got close on a few other problems and I can't wait to get back. There are some pics below. Right now I'm in the process of getting the truck together so I can head out to Horse Pens 40 for the 2nd leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Temps look AMAZING this year with highs in the mid 50's. This is a much welcomed change from past years where the highs were in the 70's. It will be a fun weekend and I can't wait to get back on some of the more classic problems in the south. Slope it UP!!!

Nate Draughn working out Lord of the Dance, V11

Stankins, V11 - Hayley Watts Photo

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

3 Days in Boone

Wednesday night I made the solo drive up to Boone to hang out for a long weekend to hang out with the best crew around.  Instead of boring you all with a written recap I'll let you watch the video below!  This edit was my first using the new Adobe Premiere Pro and Adobe After Effects CS5 so its somewhat of a test run for me.  Hope you enjoy!

3 Days in Boone from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Hound Ear's Complete

The first event of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series at Hound Ears, NC was a blast!  The weather cooperated and it was a great day to be out and about.  After a not so restful nights sleep (I get anxious) we were off to the boulders where the crowds dispersed throughout the field. 

After a quick warmup Jimmy, Voges, Daniel Beall, and myself walked over to Mr. Thick V9 and we were all able to do it quickly. Next on the list was Pitbull V9, a problem I hadn't done in the past.  I was able to do this one quickly as well and topped out on my second attempt of the day.  It was then on to the backside of the same boulder to Nudging It V10/11.  I had figured out a good sequence on the short, tricky boulder last year and was able to repeat first go this year.

Next on the list was Random Man V11.  Random Man was my main goal for the trip.  I had gotten shut down last year and was really excited to come back and see how things went.  I was able to do this one second attempt too, which is fortunate because it is quite sharp and spending a lot of time on it could have been treacherous for my skin. 

Fuc Yo V9 was next on the list.  After a couple failed attempts at the sit, The Crusher V10, I decided to cut my losses and just do the stand.  Temperatures were starting to rise at that point and the edges were feeling worse with every attempt.

Matt Paden -

The next problem, Rapid Fire V9, was also a new problem for me.  Again, I was able to do this one fairly quickly, but I could definitely feel the fatigue starting to set in. Unfortunately, I was only five problems in and had another five left before I could call it quits. 

The next two problems, Brady Problem V9 and Pimp Trick Gangsta Click V10, were also new to me.  I was able to do Brady Problem quickly and was also able to make a flash of P.T.G.C.  At this point I was completely wrecked.  I have never had my muscles cramp up like they did after these two problems.  Not only were my arms and body completely shot, but my legs started to cramp up with every step I took up the steep hill that houses the boulders. Heinous. 

Jimmy and I took off toward Oral Resume V10 next.  I had tried the problem briefly the previous year but was unsuccessful.  After watching Jimmy cruise through the problem I really tried to focus in and just get the problem over with.  Halfway through the problem my hand dry fired off a hold as I was reaching for one of the last good edges.  NEGATIVE.  My next attempt I found myself at the big outro move to a flat rail. 

I set up, tried as hard as I could, and came up SHORT.  I rebated back to the two edges I was on and tried again.  This time I briefly paused with two fingers on the rail and tried to transfer my weight over to that side, only to have everything fail.  I had reached the point of failure and my body was done.  No more. Game over. 

I had two more spots on my scorecard to fill in and I was way too tired to try Oral Resume again.  I figured the best thing to do is to do two problems I knew I could do.  I had done The Tourist V9 and Jaws 2 Direct V8 last year and ended up finishing off my card with them.  It was an awesome feeling knowing I had filled my card and that I didn't need to climb another rock the rest of the day.

It was a great day of rock climbing and it was awesome to climb with so many people that were excited to just be out trying hard.   My friends Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges ended up taking 1st and 3rd places, respectively, and I managed to come in 2nd.  

I had one of the best days of rock climbing I think I've ever had this past weekend.  Its nice to see that all the hard work over the last 8 months or so is paying off.  The weather here in the southeast is dropping everyday I can't wait to start trying all the problems I have on my list for the season!  Plans for a few trips are in the making and I'll be in HUECO in 53 DAYS!!!

Friday, October 1, 2010

Triple Crown!!!

The first leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering series kicks off this weekend in Boone, NC at Hound Ear's. I am SUPER psyched for it! Climbing, hanging out with friends, food...can't get much better.

My little 'strategy' for this weekend was a little different from what I normally do. I usually climb hard during the week before a comp and then take two days off in hopes of feeling really good on comp day. This either works well or completely backfires...I'll usually feel good or feel completely wrecked from the previous week. I've decided to switch it up a bit and I hope it works out for me. Instead of pushing myself this past week, I've been taking it a little easy leading up to the comp in hopes of being completely fresh and at the top of my game by Saturday.

Rami on Sunday Service V11

I'm hoping all the bouldering and training I've been doing for the past 8 months will pay off as well. This is the longest time I've ever spent bouldering exclusively, and is a major switch up from all the route climbing I've done in the past. I feel much better prepared going into bouldering season this year than I have in the past and I am excited to see the gains from all the dedicated gym sessions this summer.

Temps are looking PRIME for this weekend too. High of 65 tomorrow and sunny! Can't wait! I'm OUT!

Friday, September 17, 2010

First of the Season!

The past week or so has been pretty busy for Hayley and me.  Saturday I attended the ABS season opener at Stone Summit here in Atlanta.  I was expecting it to be pretty busy but I definitely wasn't prepared for the huge number of people that came out to take part in the fun.  It was fun competing and climbing with friends.  I wound up taking 2nd place behind Jimmy and I even ended up taking home a little cash.

Right after the comp Hayley and I hopped in the car and took off for North Carolina for our friends' wedding.  After driving through rain and fog we arrived safely at our destination.  The wedding on Sunday was a great time and I couldn't be happier for our friends Natasha and Peter.  Congrats!  It was a fun filled couple of days and it was great seeing old friends again.

After the festivities on Sunday came to an end, we once again hopped in the car and made the short drive to Boone, NC to meet up with our friends for a couple days of climbing.  I had only spent one day climbing in North Carolina prior to this weekend at last years Triple Crown comp and was super psyched to get back to check out some of the other areas Boone has to offer.

Our large crew consisting of Hayley, Devin, Nate Draughn, Rami, BClev, Tilley, Doug, Taylor and a few others cruised to Grandmother, Lost Cove, and Blowing Rock over the course of two days.  The climbing around Boone is amazing and I am super psyched to get back ASAP.  I managed to do a few problems including:

Shinister V6
Chapter 13 V7
Two Pop V9
Portobello V9
Full Throttle V11
Sunday Service V11

I threw together a little video of the trip.  Check it out...

First of the Season from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010


Old Joe Kinder video from when I climbed rocks that were more than 15 feet tall...

Southern Smoke with Joe Kinder & Brad Weaver from Joey Kinder on Vimeo.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Top 10 Movies To Get Me Through The Summer

So I finally got outside for the first time since March!  OHHH BOY!  It might not be prime yet but getting out was a much needed break from climbing indoors for 5 or 6 months.  Hayley and I heard that a couple friends were putting on a Slope n' Slide (think giant slip n' slide) event at HP40 and we were psyched to be in attendance.  Although I didn't participate in the slippery portion of the event I did have a great time running around trying to repeat problems in the heat!  Things went better than expected and it makes me even more psyched for the good fall conditions to roll in.

Photo: Hayley Watts

Photo: Hayley Watts

Right now we are back in Illinois visiting family.  We leave Sunday to go back to GA for a few days then we are off to North Carolina for our friends' wedding.  On the way back we are planning on sampling some of the climbing in Boone.  Definitely looking forward to it!

This summer was pretty crazy with school and work and I never really had the chance to get outside (or wanted to for that matter due to the heat).  In between the gym sessions, school work, and work I kept myself busy searching the internet for climbing videos as well as watching videos I own on DVD.

Below is a list of MY TOP 10 FAVORITE CLIMBING VIDEOS that held my interest throughout the summer.

1.) Between the Trees - my all time favorite climbing film

2.) Progression - South Africa segment

3.) Dosage V - Arkansas and Alpine bouldering segments

4.) Dosage IV - Hueco segment

5.) Nalle Hukkataival in the bouldering short Could Be Worse

6.) Angie Payne on No More Greener Grasses -

7.)  Brion Voges in Colorado
8.)  Hueco Rock Rodeo Clips
9.)  Phil Schaal in Hueco
10.)  Daniel Woods in Colorado

Obviously there are other videos out that are more than worthy...these just happen to be in my top ten.  Check them out if you get a chance. Maybe they'll give you that extra little bit of motivation to get through the final warm weather months.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Fall is Approaching!

This is by far the most amount of time I've spent climbing indoors.  Even when I lived in Illinois I would brave the heat and humidity and take day trips to Southern Illinois for a day of bouldering.  School took up the majority of my time this summer and I have to say that I'm glad its over.  I had a two week break after my last final and classes start back up today.  UGH!  It never ends!  All is good though.  Fall is upon us here in the south and psych is high.  Everyday the temperature and humidity seem to drop a little bit more.  The cool temps and crisp conditions will be here before we know it.

I've had my ticklist prepared for about a month now and it always seems to be growing.  I'll randomly think of another problem that I want to do this season and it'll get added right underneath the last one.  Right now I think I have 42 problems on the list.

I've been in the gym climbing and preparing for the winter season a lot lately and I feel like I'm in the best shape I've ever been in.  I've really been working my weaknesses and I hope it pays off.  Pinches, big moves, and power problems have been the name of the game for me.

I signed up for the first two events of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series and can't wait to see how things play out this year.  I won't be attending the last event at Stone Fort because I'll be in HUECO!  So psyched!  Can't wait! 

Like I said, conditions are getting a little better everyday and it seems that fall is around the corner.  Motivation is high and I'm really looking forward to stepping outside one morning to cool, crisp temps.  BOOM! 

Friday, May 28, 2010

Stone Summit

There has been a lot of buzz in the southeast lately about an amazing new gym called Stone Summit .  I had seen pictures online and the place looked sick.  I got in contact with the owners and they were nice enough to invite me down to check it out.  

Let me start off by saying that pictures do NOT do this place justice.  I was in awe as soon as I stepped foot into the building.  The walls built by Walltopia offer a wide variety of angles to climb on and they are TALL!  It is almost overwhelming.  This is the first place that I've been to where you can take actual whippers inside...a definite advantage to having walls that are 60 feet tall.  I had the best time I've had climbing indoors in a long time and got pumped out of my mind.  The sick walls, new holds, and great route setting make for the best indoor sport climbing I've seen anywhere.  If you are in the Atlanta area you need to check this place out.  

The Motherload in Atlanta

The bouldering at Stone Summit is also amazing.  Once again the wide variety of angles, sick holds, and huge pads make for an indoor bouldering paradise.  

Stone Summit is changing the gym climbing game in the southeast.  It is the first that I've seen to offer the full package....amazing bouldering, sick sport climbing, yoga studio, weight room, etc.  

I'm also extremely psyched to say that I am the first Stone Summit sponsored athlete!  Like I said...this place is AMAZING and I know that it is going to be key with helping me get in the best shape of my life.  I can't wait to start training harder than ever...projects are on the mind!!!

The gym is in the final stages of construction and opening day is Saturday, June 12th!  Go to for directions and hours.  Come check it out and see what all the hype is about!

Friday, May 21, 2010

Quick Update

I've been super busy lately so updates have been few and far between.  I finished up the spring semester and have moved on to my summer classes.  Between school and work I've had a hard time finding time to climb and I think it will be that way for the next month.  Fortunately, the guys at So Ill sent me one of the new Iron Palm hangboards.  I had been looking into getting a new hangboard for a few weeks and decided to drop them a line to see if I could get my hands on an Iron Palm and they were nice enough to hook it up.

I've had two sessions on it so far and I gotta say that it is a sick piece of training equipment.  My focus has been on building contact strength and the big slopers and comfortable edges are helping me do just that.  Jason Kehl really went above and beyond on this fingerboard and hopefully I'll be seeing some gains from using it here soon.

I think it is safe to say that summer has arrived in the southeast.  The heat and humidity are a real deterrent from climbing outside.  However, as soon as it stops raining for more than a couple of days I'm going to try and make it out to Rocktown to have an endurance session on the hot boulders.  The plan is to go out and see how many boulder problems we can do in the heat...should be interesting!

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Help Restore Access To Draper's Bluff!

From the Illinois Climber's Association:

If you want to see Draper's reopened and access secured at privately owned area's including the Holy Boulders, please visit: to find out how you can help.

Please contact your representative or take the time to write a letter to help secure access for the future of Southern Illinois climbing.  

Anyone can write a letter and if they are from out of state, it really says something.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Catchin' Up

Whoa!  Once again I apologize for the lack of updates.  The past couple of weeks have been very busy for me as far as school goes.  The semester is winding down and there have been a lot of deadlines that needed to be met.

A while back I started seriously training for climbing.  When I lived in Illinois there were times when I'd get into a little training cycle, but it'd usually only last for a couple weeks.  I've been motivated enough lately to actually stick with my little training program and I can already see the gains from the long hours in the gym!  Before I actually started physically doing anything I made an effort to understand the basics of training for rock climbing.  The biggest source of information has easily been Ben Moon's  The site has tons of information about training and if you are looking for a source that is full of insight and experience then I would recommend checking it out for yourself.

One of the best pieces of advice I have gotten off of the site is to write out a list of goals.  These goals are meant to help you stay motivated and to give you a way to measure progress.  Another thing that I have found to be really helpful is to keep a training log...nothing super in depth but it is enough to allow you to look back and see where you were a week ago, a month ago, two months ago, etc.

I took it upon myself to keep a little training log and I find it to be really useful in identifying my weaknesses and helping me target areas that I need to work on.  Also, it is a good way to ensure that you keep mixing things up.  I feel like getting stuck into a single routine is something that is all too easy to do and that mixing things up will keep your mind and your body on point.

When I started my little training log I didn't intend to share it with anybody, let alone post it on the blog here.  However, since I haven't posted anything in about a month I thought I'd share it to let people see what I've been up to.  Again,  its not that in depth, but it'll give you a basic idea of what I've been spending my time doing.  Like I said, I wasn't planning on sharing this with anybody so a lot of what is written down is only going to make sense to me...sorry for the confusion in advance.



Short Term Goal
1-5-9 on campus board
2 one arm pullups
stronger lockoffs-deep lockoffs-lock off further
do the hard taped boulders in the gym

Mid Term Goals
Qualify for Finals at Mammut in SLC
Do SoCo and SoCo right
Flash v11
Climb v13 or v14 in hueco

Long Term Goals
Climb v14
Climb 9a sport route
Flash v12

Training Log Key
Slight wall =15-20 degree??
Steep wall=nearly horizontal

First Week or so
Core workout every other day
·      On bar 20 reps L hangs- 1set
o   Moved onto 25 reps
·      On bar 20 reps knees to chest-1 set
·      On bar 10 leg kicks hanging straight, almost 90, 90, full lock off, reverse-1 set
·      On bar 20 reps windshield wipers, knees bent-1 set
o   Moved onto 10 reps knees bent, 5 reps straight legs
·      On bar 10 leg kicks hanging straight, almost 90, 90, full lock off, lower-20 windshield wipers, knees bent-pull up and reverse leg kicks
Bouldering 3 days on, 1 day off, 1 day on, the canyon

2/21 – warm up for an hour, go to campus board, cool down
2/22 – slow warm up, 30 min or so then onto slightly harder problems on slightly overhung wall. Feeling quite tired.  Then onto the steep.  Senya and I taped several hard problems before we even warmed up so we could have something to work on.  They ended up being quite hard, or at least they felt difficult today.  Could be easy when fresh.  Goal was to try and do all the moves on all the problems.  It was successful minus one tensiony move.  Basically went to failure on the steep.  Couldn’t hold on any longer.  I feel like I can climb harder, more days on than I could a week ago.  Core feels stronger. Cooled down for 10-15 minutes and went to do core.
·      Core on Bar
o   20 reps L Hangs-1 set
o   20 reps knees to chest-1set
o   1 set 10 lockoff,leg kick cycle
o   20 reps windshield wipers, knees bent 1 set
o   10 reps windshield wipers, straight legs 1 set
o   10 lockoff, leg kick cycle-15 windshield wipers knees bent-5 straight leg-pull up and reverse leg kicks
o   10 reps L Hangs -½ set
·      Core off Bar
o   Legs elevated 6 inches, back off ground-30 seconds
o   Planks- 20 seconds toes hooked, 10 seconds unhooked, 20 seconds hooked.
·      3 One arm pullups each arm, slow lower
2/24 – felt really good today!  Slow warm up, steadily increasing in difficulty.  After warming up for about an hour and spending some time on the sightly overhung wall (did a few crimpy problems to keep fingers strong) I went to the campus board.  Did the whole routine
·      ladder 1,3,5,7,9 twice
·      ladder 1,4,6,9 twice leading with each arm (4 in total)
·      ladder maximum 1,5,8 (trying for 1,5,9) 3 tries leading with each arm (6 in total)
·      touches 1,4,1,4,1,4,1,4,1  3 times
·      touches 1,5,4,5,4 5,4,5  2 times leading with each arm (4 in total)
Really focused on going slow and controlled.  Felt it in the shoulders on the touches and felt kinda fatigued after the whole workout.  Continued to boulder on the steep trying hard taped problems for a while.  Did the stand of the black.  Felt around v10 from the stand.  Sit will be a little harder.  Got close on the another problem.  Played a little game where we would set a boulder that we thought we could do in 6 min and tried it until time ran out. Rested 5 min, repeat.  Felt like a good workout and it was fun.  Afterwards I cooled down and was done.  Pretty hard session.  Felt good though.  Need to work on jumpy moves on the overhung with body tension.

2/25 – felt really really bad today. Warmed up for a long time and never really got warmed up.  Wasn’t sore though..just foggy headed and felt weak.  Didn’t do much climbing at all.  Tweaked my right middle finger a bit as well when doing a slightly harder warmup problem.  Actually tweaked it on a pinch when I moved off it kinda hard.  Climbed on it a bit more and figured I should probably stay off it for the rest of the day.  I figured I’d salvage the day and do a core workout.  Didn’t have much excitement for that either.  Ended up kinda forcing myself to do some core stuff.  Don’t think I’ll be sore tomorrow but I worked on my lower core doing low L hangs and doing pullups.  Did one arms (5 sets…1 one arm = a set) and lowered slowly.  Felt good in the first couple sets and then got really tired.  Hoping my finger is gonna feel good tomorrow.  Scary!  Easy session.

2/26 – Felt alright today.  Better than yesterday at least.  Warmed up and made one harder problem on the slightly overhung wall, which Senya and I both finished.  We moved onto the steep where Senya made a problem that was really hard for me.  I dunno if I was just tired or if it is not my style or what.  I did it in two sections and am going to try and go back and do it on Monday.  I also tried the full black taped problem.  I did the stand a couple days ago and now I have to do the whole thing.  Even though the beginning is only a couple of moves on good holds it really takes the energy out of me for the ending roof moves.  I think it would be v12 or harder outside.  Compared to vapor lock it is much, much harder.  After that we tried a dumb crimpy line and then I cooled down.  Tired!  Medium session.
2/28 – Climbed at the Alabama boulders.  Felt pretty good.  Still need to work on big moves and pull throughs.  Flashed v8, did two v9’s, and a v10.  All felt pretty chill…starting to feel good?? Maybe?? 
3/1 – Went into the gym and warmed up.  I felt really tired and didn’t have any motivation.  We tore down the box on the 45 and set some boulders.  We have a 45 degree wall again!!!  Sooo psyched! 
3/2 – Set some more boulders on the 45 and climbed on it ALL night. Basically climbed till failure. Felt good today. Had some really good problems.  One project to go back to with a big move to a pinch.  Trying to work on thuggy problems.  Did some core excercises before leaving.
3/4 – Climbed fairly hard today.  I decided to go to the HPRocks comp this weekend so I didn’t want to take it too hard.  Felt good today though!
3/6 – Did the HPRocks Comp today.  Felt really, really good!  Did 24 problems v7 or harder.  God Module felt easy!  Locked down all the holds!  Got so worked…failure for sure. 
3/9 – Felt terrible today.  Basically warmed up and went home.  Need more rest.
3/10- climbed more today but still felt tired.  Did a campus board workout though, and climbed for quite a while afterwards.  TIRED!  Need to rest!  The endurance comp killed me!  Still worked!
3/12 – After another day of rest I finally felt good!  Really slow warm up, which is key! Today was a really long gym session.  Did another campus board exercise and felt really strong. climbed for a long, long time afterwards on the 45.  We’ve been spending all of our time on that wall.  Dunno how good that is.  We should probably switch it up but we’ve just spent so much time on the other walls previously that its hard to do it.  Still working hard at pinches and big moves.  Starting to see results…kinda!  After climbing till basically failure we did a small core workout.  Need to keep doing core!
3/14 – took a rest day and planned on campusing today but ended up just climbing on the 45.  Did some of the harder problems we were working on the previous day.  Mostly pinches again.  Felt alright but things didn’t seem to be clicking.  Medium/hard day
3/16 – took a rest day yesterday even though I wanted to climb because my finger is sore.  It needed time off so I did just that.  felt really bad at the beginning of the session but after about an hour of warming up and 45 minutes of rest I felt good!  I’m thinking that I didn’t feel good to start because I didn’t cool down very well on the last day I climbed.  During the 45 minutes of rest today we threw a bunch of screw on edges on the 45.  We climbed a bunch and taped some hard problems.  The new problems use a lot of edges but still have some pinches and some big moves.  Really good problems that I hope I can do.  We need to set more power problems…hard individual moves. Climbed for 3 or so hours and then did some core workout.  Some on the bar and some on the ground.  I don’t think I’ll be sore from the core tomorrow but I can already feel the rest of my body getting sore.  Hopefully campus tomorrow. Medium-Hard
3/17 – Felt pretty terrible warming up. Pretty much hit the campus board and did core after a bad warm up.  Climbed a little bit afterwards and did an endurance circuit.  Need to start doing a few of those more often.  Got PUMPED!  Medium session
3/19 – Had to rest because I had to start a new job.  Went in today and wasn’t very motivated because nobody else was in the gym to climb with.  I warmed up and played on some harder problems and did one that was probably in the v9 range. Almost did Gucci Gucci V11? problem (bad left hand black pinch to green right pinch).  So close! I think I’m beginning to feel better on bigger moves/jumps…maybe.  Wasn’t all that psyched but ended up doing an alright campus session solo.  Also did the whole one arm pullup routine..3 on each arm…slow on the way down and some core exercises. Medium session
Some Day??? -  felt incredible…did Gucci Gucci v11? really quick and was super solid on it.  Felt really good.  At some point did 1-5-8 every attempt during campus workout. Forgot to update for a while there…did two days of enduro workouts
3-27 – Soco 2nd go today!  PSYCHED to have that one done!
3/30 – felt alright today.  Rested yesterday.  Did Southern Comfort a few days ago.  With the warm weather approaching and after doing a route I feel like route climbing.  Did some bouldering and then did some enduro workouts again.  Climbed on the slightly overhung wall and in the steep for a bit this evening and felt pretty weak on the angle.  Did some core then left.  Medium day
3/31 -  felt tired and a bit sore from yesterday’s session.  Warmed up and started working on problems on the slightly overhung wall.  Did some problems that didn’t suite me that well…some slopers and some shouldery stuff.  Felt alright on them.  Feeling good on this angle again.  Gotta keep switching it up.  Bouldered in the steep afterwards and made some good harder problems…nothing too heinous though…maybe v9/10.  Tried to do some campusing and my skin was hurting so bad that I had to stop.  Did some core on the floor and left.  Medium/hard day.
4/2 – first solo day at the gym during senya’s spring break.  Motivation wasn’t that high because of this and the fact that it was HOT!  Did all the easy problems (under 100 points) in the gym to warm up then did a problem on the slightly overhung wall that was good to warm up the fingers.  Went to try my big move crimp problem that I did a while back in the 45 and couldn’t do it cause I would slip off or my hands would blow off on the bigger moves.  Did it in two sections though.  Then did a campus workout on the bigger rungs and then did some 1,3,5,7,9 on smallest rungs.  I felt much better on the smaller rungs than I thought I would.  Did some lockoffs (one and two arms) on the jugs, did a bunch of core on the ground, tried senya’s circuit in the steep (got to 60 something I think??) then cooled down and left. Hard day. Skin hurts.
4/3 – was kinda sore today…abs are tired.  motivation was once again pretty low.  The thought of hueco and the red are pushing me though.  Wasn’t as hot as yesterday but it was still warm.  Warmed up and felt pretty heavy but then jumped on some harder problems that this guy steve showed me and kinda jumpstarted my body.  Did a couple problems on the slight and then a couple on the 45.  Then I campused…half the exercise was on the big rungs and half were on the smaller. Big rungs were 1-5-8 (felt good on this today) and 1-5-4-5.  Small rungs were 1-3-5-7-9, 1-4-6-9, 1-4-1 - Skin hurts still.  Did a circuit plus 40 moves (100 moves in total) in the 45 and cooled down.  Medium day.
4/6 - Rested for two days and back at it again today with the solo sesh.  Still HOT…we skipped spring.  Felt good warming up today and it carried over throughout the day.  Did a couple of harder problems on the slight and then moved on to the steep where I did one hard problem.   Did a campus workout again. Half of it was on the smallest rungs and the other half was on the bigger ones.  Felt really good campusing today.  Did 1-5-8 all 3 tries with both arms. Felt like I could almost do 1-5-9. Almost.   Hopefully soon.  The bigger rungs feel so big compared to the smallest ones.  Skin is still acting up.  Started to hurt after the campus sesh.  Randy showed up and we tried another problem in the steep but skin hurt too bad so we went to 45.  Did his crimpy problem and felt like I could just lock holds down.  Good feeling.  Then tried the problem Steve showed me with the big move to the fun ball.  Did the move and worked different sequence for the bottom with big moves.  Really tried to do big moves today.  Did one arm routine-3 with each arm- and cooled down.  Medium hard day.
4/7 – warmed up pretty quickly today.  Felt pretty tired but it wasn’t as hot as yesterday so it was all good.  Did some problems on the slight, moved on and tried to do some big move/dyno problems in the 45 before my skin was too wrecked to keep going.  Did some core and called it a day. Easy day.
4-9 – warmed up quickly today and felt good.  Did my mini project on the slight quickly and moved onto the 45.  Did two or three projects in there today and felt strong.  Motiviation is much higher with others around and today I was alone.  Left feeling hungry and slightly tired.  Medium-hard day.
4-12 – I don’t really remember this day…I am logging an entry a couple days later.  i think it was the first day back with Senya and we did some problems in the 45.  Felt okay. Medium day
4-14 – Warmed up and did some problems with Senya on the slight then campus sesh.  Did some problems in the 45 again.  Skin started hurting later. medium-hard day
4-15 – Warmed up and felt heavy.  Did some easier problems on the slight, did one of my problems in the steep, then back to 45.  Did the project from last night first go then did a hard problem with the left hand white crimp to the good big blue sloper thing.  Felt v10/11.  Then did another crimpy problem that was probably in the same range.  Felt CRIMPY!  Tried some other problems but was definitely tired.  Did some core then called it a day. Hard Day.
4-16 – felt tired today but wanted to try and climb anyways.  Need to stay strong more days on.  Did some boulders and then did some core.  Did two enduro routes (100 moves each) then left. Easy day. Feel tired
4-19 – felt good today and was able to warm up quickly.  Did some easier problems on the slight and then went to the steep and did a hard boulder in there weighing in around 9 or so. Went to the 45 and came up with some hard boulders problems and a project.  Did a bunch of fingery stuff. Started to feel hungry and tired so I bailed.  Medium hard day.  I’m 22 today…old man status.
4-20 – felt alright today.  Woke up really late/noon.  Warmed up pretty quickly and started trying a problem in the steep.  Did the stand and then got bored and went to the campus boards and did the routine.  Things are starting to get easier on the campus boards and I can do 1-5-8 everytime.  Got really close to 1-5-9 today.  Just a little bit more work and it’ll be done.  Bouldered in the 45 with Avery and did some cool problems…nothing too heinous.  Tried my mini proj a little bit again…sustained power endurance.  Linked from in the middle to near the top.  Close. Did some core then left.  Medium hard day.
4-21 – felt tired today for sure but was still able to warm up rather quickly.  Made up a hard problem in the steep and worked on it for a little while until I did it.  Climbed in the 45 the rest of the day.  Tried to just do a lot of problems because I was tired and my fingers were a little sore. Climbed for like 4 or 5 hours.  Haven’t climbed this hard 3 days on in a while...mental battle with hurting skin.  Hard day.
4-22 – I woke up sore from yesterday’s session but was pretty determined to head in to the gym today anyways.  Solo session today so I worked on endurance and did core exercises.  My goal was to do 1000 moves in sets of 100 moves.  Started on the vertical wall, moved to the slight, then did 3 sets in the 45 before my skin was hurting too bad to continue.  Endurance needs some work but there’s no rush...its not the focus at the moment…it’d just be nice to have a decent endurance base for when I need it.    Medium day.  Two rest days starting tomorrow.

Monday, March 29, 2010

SoCo Part II.

Well, Saturday's trip to the Concave was a success!  I was able to make the 3rd ascent of Southern Comfort 5.14a on my second go of the day (5th go overall).  It was a little bit chillier out than our last visit, which made for nearly perfect conditions.

After warming up I jumped on SoCo to try to finish it up.  I had been thinking about the climb for the past two days I was nervous starting out.  I knew I was overgripping everything but couldn't stop myself from doing so.  I felt pretty good up until the 3/4 mark but then the dreaded pump started to creep up on me.  I tried hard but ended up falling at the last stopper move AGAIN!   I ended up doing the move a couple times on the hang to get it a little more dialed.  I sat for about an hour before giving it another go.

My first go jitters were gone and I was much more relaxed this time around.  I cruised through the bottom part of the route and found myself staring at the last move.  Almost on autopilot I crimped hard with my left hand, pulled hard with my toe, and focused hard on the last move.  This time everything clicked and I found myself at the anchors.


To be honest, I'm pretty psyched to have this one done with.  I really didn't want to make it a habit to fall on that last move over, and over, and over again.

Usually I'm really psyched about sport climbing after a winter of bouldering and this time around it isn't any different.  After the initial shock my body went through after not doing anything endurance oriented for a while, it felt good to route climb again.  I really enjoy the challenge of route climbing.  Instead of just throwing myself at a few moves until I (hopefully) do a problem, I really like the route climbing process... pacing myself, learning a route, and eventually keeping it all together to link the entire route.  This one route climbing experience has taught me that I am a MUCH better route climber than I am boulderer.  It just suites me better I guess.  Bouldering has always been hard for me and I think it will always be that way.  But that doesn't mean I'm giving up just yet!  Nope!

Actually, I don't really have any more plans to route climb until next year.  I really just plan on bouldering until Hueco.  Part of the decision to focus on bouldering is because of my Hueco trip.  It always takes me a long time to get into good bouldering shape so I figured that instead of route climbing, losing my bouldering game, and then trying to get back in shape right before Hueco, that I'd just stick with it and see how it plays out later this year.  Another reason for my new focus is that I really want to come back into route climbing next year stronger than I have been in the past.  There are a few routes I am really looking forward to trying and pure endurance isn't going to cut it.   Hopefully the strength from bouldering will transfer over nicely to the routes I want to climb in the near future.

Some RaNdOm shots of the pups...

Thursday, March 25, 2010


There has definitely been a lack of updates on my part, mostly because there hasn't been a whole lot happening.  I've been busy training indoors for some time now but yesterday Hayley and I drove up to Little River Canyon to do some sport climbing.  We were out at the Concave a few weeks ago so I could try my hand at Southern Comfort 5.14a and things didn't go too well.  I hadn't sport climbed since the early fall and my lead head definitely wasn't with me.  I ended up bailing around the fourth bolt after sketching myself out about the chossy/sketchy bottom of the route.  This time around things went much better.

After warming up I decided to hop on Hooligans 5.13a to test out my endurance.  The tests came back negative!  No endurance! Even though I was pumped out of my mind I managed to make my way to the chains, resting every opportunity that I got.

(Click On Pics to Enlarge)
Chaz on Showboaters 5.13b

Next up was SoCo.  After depumping I decided to give it a go.  I had a good idea of what to do for the first four bolts but the rest of the route was a complete mystery.  Luckily Jimmy Webb had arrived and I was able to get the spraydown on the whole route, which made my little adventure a little less stressful. 

Chit Chat

As I made my way through the first four bolts I was much calmer than on my previous attempt and I easily made my way to a big jug rest at the fourth bolt.  With the sketchy part of the route over with I was able to chill out enough to get my mind into sport climbing mode.  I relaxed myself and went over Jimmy's beta before embarking on the rest of the route.  As I left the rest I felt pretty good...just a mild pump.  I quickly made it through the next bouldery section to another decent rest.  The pump was beginning to set in but I tried to relax enough to get a little bit back before the next section.  I sat there for a minute and knew that with my lack of endurance and my inability to recover that I was better off just leaving the rest and climbing.


I left the rest pretty pumped but tried really hard through the next couple of bolts.  I was pumping out quick and I only had one more bolt and then the chains.  I tried as hard as I could but my hands were opening up.  I fell going through the last hard section, pulled back up to the bolt, rested for a minute, and quickly finished it up from there.  Not bad for my second time on the route!  It was a nice test to see how I felt on routes after not climbing anything over 12 feet since last fall. 


I was really impressed with how good the route climbed after the fourth bolt.  The movement is really unique and if it weren't for the choss and glue in the first part of the route I think it would be one of my favorites.


I rested for quite a while and wasn't sure if I wanted to give it another go.  I figured that if I didn't do well on my second go that at least I would be learning the route better and it would pay off the next time I came out.  This time the route felt better than the previous attempt and I fell two moves higher than before.  This move is quite hard, even in isolation.  The breakdown of the route goes something like this...

-V6 section to a rest
-V6/7 section to a decent rest/shake spot
-V7 section
-V7/8 section

The last section alone is quite difficult and the last move is a heartbreaker.  Basically you take two good edges, get your right foot high, and make a huge deadpoint into a horizontal slot that is maybe 2 pads deep.

This is the move I fell on during my second go of the day and I really hope it doesn't become a habit.  After this last stopper move the route is over.

Jimmy had some really good burns on the route yesterday as well, falling in the last section of the climb. We are heading out on Saturday and I'm predicting that the route will see its 3rd and 4th ascents!  PSYCHED!