Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Ar-kansas

First off...sorry for the lack of photos...psych was high and breaking out the camera wasn't in my thought process.

For the past week or so I've been chillin and climbing in Arkansas. The bouldering scene in the videos Dosage 3 and 5 looked superb and I had to check it out for myself. Hayley and I met up with an amazing crew consisting of Nathan Drolet, Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Kasia Pietres, and Isabelle Faus. We ended up renting "The Barn" for our stay, which was quite nice. Beds, showers, heat, and a kitchen are nice to come home to after a day of bouldering in the cold.

Our first climbing day we had frigid conditions...too cold to climb in actually. We ended up only being out for a couple of hours but I managed to climb a really nice V10 called Flash Gordon. I also played around on the low start called The Anti-Hero, which was given V13.

The next day was much better as far as conditions go. We made our way to Fontaine Red where we warmed up on classics like Le Beak V4. From there we made the 10 minute hike over to Fred's Cave. I had my sites set on Fred's Roof, a really cool V10 that follows good holds through big moves, and I was able to send in a few goes. Afterwards I dabbled on Chunk Up the Deuce and bailed after realizing it was my anti-style and ventured to its neighbor One Inch Pinch V12. This one suited me much better...good edges that led to a decent right hand pinch. From there you have to make a precise stab into a slot. After sorting out my beta and dialing in the moves I was able to dispatch! Very psyched about this one. I was lucky enough to have Jimmy filming throughout the day as well so I was able to throw together a little video of the climb.


One Inch Pinch V12 from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.



The next day a bunch of us decided to stay and climb at the ranch. Voges and I had our sites set on Glass Bowl V10, which we both did quickly. We also managed to do a bunch of amazing moderates in the area and Voges was able to snag Bloody Knuckles V11 in a couple of goes...strong work for sure. I was really psyched to get back to The Anti-Hero to try to make some progress on it, so we made our way over there towards the end of the day. On my first go of the day I surprised myself by climbing all the way into the last move of Flash Gordon. This move is the crux of FG and revolves around a long lockoff/deadpoint to a slopey edge. I was super stoked about the progress, especially when considering the fact that I had basically flailed all over the problem a couple days prior. On my next go the same thing happened. I made my way through the lower section and fell on the big deadpoint move. I was pretty shot at this point, gave it one more poor attempt, and decided to just dial in the middle section as well as I could.

Voges, Nathan, and I walked around the boulder to another classic problem called Jeff's Prow V9. We had tried it a little bit our first day but quickly gave up when we numbed out 3 moves in on several attempts. This time conditions were much more enjoyable and we were able to unlock the beta with some effort. I decided to give it one more go and topped out as it was getting dark.

It rained the next day and the majority of us took a much needed rest. After grabbing some more groceries Nathan, Hayley and I snagged some pizza from the local pizza shop in Jasper and headed back to The Barn to watch movies for the rest of the day.

We awoke psyched to climb the next morning but a heavy fog loomed over the entire area, ruining everything. Everybody but Hayley and I had plans to go to Hueco the next day so they all decided to bounce a day early in order to get a jump start on their long drive. One thing about being on a trip with a bunch of people is that when people start to leave, things don't feel the same...the vibe is just different. Hayley and I decided to make the best of the day and went looking for boulders. I really wanted to find Dirty 30 V12, Southern Lean V12, and Pangae V12 and we had rough directions to get there. We hiked through a creek bed for a couple of hours and I was able to find Pangae but no Dirty 30 or Southern Lean. Not that productive of a journey but it was fun nonetheless. If anybody has directions to either of these boulders and would like to share it'd be much appreciated!

As we were hiking back to The Barn, contemplating what to do with the rest of our day, the sun broke through the clouds and began drying up the boulders. We figured we'd get some lunch and head up to the boulders to see if they were dry enough to climb.

I was psyched to head back up to The Anti-Hero V12 and Hayley wanted to try a classic V6 arete called Africa Arete so we headed that way. Hayley figured out some good beta for her problem before we headed over to mine. I was psyched to find the holds dry and set out to work. I pulled on and made my way through the bottom boulder problem and found myself at the move I was falling at on my previous round of attempts. This time I really focused on keeping everything tight and close to the wall. I snagged the slopey edge and my feet swung out from the wall. I kicked them back on, grabbed the jug at the lip of the boulder, and topped out. So PSYCHED! The Anti-Hero was originally given V13, however, with new(ish) beta I don't feel that this is accurate. Also, a few weeks ago a key undercling to the problem was broken off and there was some talk about whether or not it was going to make the problem harder. I didn't use the broken/new hold in my sequence so it definitely doesn't make the problem any more difficult (or easier for that matter).



The Anti-Hero V12

I am back in Illinois for a week to celebrate the holidays. I'll be climbing in the gym and am hoping to make it to So Ill for a few days as well before we head back to GA for Christmas day. There was some talk about heading back to Arkansas the 28th or so with a big crew so I'm hoping that those plans pan out.


Some shots:

Hayley

5 comments:

  1. Yo Brad... You've definitely been killin it down south. I kinda mentioned that we should do some filming a few months back... would you still be down? Let me know and we'll go from there: brant@projekt-media.com Peace!

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  2. Yo! Yeah I'd be down for sure. Let me know what you're thinking and maybe we can figure something out.

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  3. We will be shooting early 2010 some parts for an upcoming series... whats your email so I can hit you with some details?

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  4. Brad! Nice effort on anti hero!! Knew you'd get that ish done! And yea plans to head back on the 28th are definite!! Atleast on my end. I believe Voges is pretty syked as well. We'll be in touch!
    Jweb

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