Saturday, November 21, 2009

Chatty Round 3

Today Hayley and I woke up early, printed off passes for LRC, met up with Senya and Sarah, and made our way to Chatty.

After warming up we met up with our buddy Nathan and proceeded towards the back of the boulder field. One of my main goals for the day was to try and do all the moves on a classic V11 called The Law. I briefly tried the problem for the first time on Wednesday with local strongman Jimmy Webb. I was completely wrecked at that point and couldn't give it more than three tries due to the condition of my skin.

I came back today super psyched to try it some more. The starting crimp rail was somewhat wet (as usual) and I tried my best to dry it out. After messing around with the first move a little bit and feeling out the rest of the climb I decided to take a rest before trying it from the start.

After about five minutes I felt good enough to give it another go. I chalked the holds, brushed them, and pulled on. The starting holds felt a little bit wetter than usual but I decided to just ignore it and try anyways. As soon as the thought of wet holds entered my head my right hand exploded from the starting hold, sending me tumbling.

Sarah Bain Photo: The Law V11

As I was heading toward the pads my shin bashed into a rock in front of me, and it somehow managed to scrape its way down my leg.


I'm not gonna lie...I was NOT psyched at this point. Super painful...kinda like hitting your shins on your bike pedals when you were a kid...just a little bit worse.

I ended up stuffing some tissue into the starting holds to dry them out, rested for 15 minutes, and decided to give it another go. This time the holds were dry. I pulled on, made the long lockoff for the first hold, and managed my way to the top. Quickness! SUPER psyched!

After this we all headed to the very back of the boulder field to play on the Cyclops/Blacksmith boulder. Senya hooked up the Blacksmith V9 fast...third go from the start or something. Good effort for sure! Hayley, Nathan, and Sarah played around a bit as well before we decided to move on.

Sarah mean muggin'

Nathan...never not psyched

Senya-Blacksmith V9

On our way back toward the front of the field we stopped at the Deception Boulder so we could try Deception V7 and The Brotherhood V8. I was able to hookup The Brotherhood with some serious effort and the rest of the crew got really close as well.

Sarah Bain Photo: Senya on The Brotherhood V8

I also got to try the Chattanoogan again at the end of the day. I wasn't able to stick 'the move' and got super frustrated. This problem is going to test my patience and attention span for sure. I made some poor attempts at the problem but I am still psyched to go back and try again next time around.

Thanksgiving is next week...I was planning on heading home for the holiday but plans have changed. Instead we are having a low key turkey day in GA and then we are heading to Horse Pens for a long weekend. There are several problems that I tried at the Triple Crown comp that I would like to try and finish up, so hopefully I can make something happen. Super psyched for sure! Keep ya posted....


  1. HP sounds like a good time! I believe we will see you there. GENETIC!!!!!!!!

  2. Hey dude< come spend Turkey Day with us! We have a big crew coming and all are welcome... not to mention we are 5 min from LRC! call me 309-846-0913

  3. Andy- thanks for the offer! I think we are chillin down here and heading to HP early friday morning. you guys should come down and climb with us!

    Jimmy- Genetic! Yes!