Saturday, November 14, 2009


Bouldering season is here but the cold weather that usually accompanies it hasn't shown up yet. Nonetheless, the weather has been beautiful and we've been making the best of it. On Thursday Hayley and I daytripped up to Chatty to go bouldering at Little Rock City. I woke up in the morning, checked the weather, and I knew it was going to be an awesome day when the forecast said 'Plentiful Sun, High 64F'. Perfect weather for a chill day of rock climbing.

After warming up I went to try Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse V9. This particular boulder problem has been shutting me down since last season. Instead of being able to do the jump move at the end of the boulder problem, I have to do a series of crimp moves that I feel uses up a lot of energy. Thursday, however, I was able to get through the crimpy-outro section first go...very psyched to have this one done...not the best boulder problem ever but definitely worth doing.

Afterwards I decided to check out a problem I've looked at since last season, Electric Boogaloo V10, a blank looking face climb. From underneath the boulder you can see faint slopey pinches, a crimp rail, and a jug near the top of the wall.

The boulder problem is very simple. Squeeze slopey pinches, hit the crimp rail, make a move to a jug. On my first go I got sketched out on the move to the jug and dropped off. On my second go I pulled on, hit a slopey right hand pinch, hit the crimp rail, and made the move to the jug. The climb is basically over after this...all that is left if a dirty topout, which I once again wigged out on. I was super psyched to do this problem so quickly. The problem was quite intimidating at first and I'm glad I decided to try it.

Sarah Bain Photo: Electric Boogaloo

The rest of the day was pretty chill and I ended up doing another facey V9 called I think I Can. The problem is a super eliminate, but it is still enjoyable.

Today Hayley and I met up with Senya Iaryguine and Sarah Bain and we all left early to go to LRC for the day. Today was a much warmer than it was on Thursday. 10 degrees warmer, in fact.

Senya...wishin he was a Powerade athlete...ha

Avery on Behind the Barndoor V7

After warming up Senya and I went over to check out Interplanetary Escape, a somewhat newly developed, soon to be classic, V9. The crux move is right off the ground and revolves around a big sideways move to a jug. The crux is actually ninja kicking your feet after sticking the jug to avoid the barndoor. A super unique move for sure. After testing out the move a few times I was able to commit. I stuck the move, kicked my feet over, and made my way up the rest of the tall slab to top out.

Hayley and Sarah got psyched on some problems as well. They played on A Face in the Crowd V7, they dabbled on a V6 near Interplanetary Escape, they both killed Line of Scrimmage V4/5, and got close on a few others. WORD!! Keep it up gals!!

Hayley Reachin'

When it comes to bouldering, I have a hard time sticking with a project. My mentality has usually been, "If I can't do a move in a few goes, I'll wait till I get stronger to do it". That has changed as of recently and I have been making an effort to work some harder boulder problems. On Thursday I tried The Chattanoogan V12 very briefly. Today I went back with the goal of doing all the moves and maybe linking a couple different sections.

There is one move in particular that is really hard for me. Basically you start out the problem, do a few moves, set up on two alright crimps, and do a kinda toss move to a flat 3 or 4 pad edge. The span needed for this move is ridiculous and it shut me down when I tried it last year and again on Thursday. Today I managed to do the move once. I just kinda floated to the good edge/jug thing, grabbed it with one hand, and managed to hold the swing. I was super psyched to finally do the move but unfortunately I wasn't able to do it again. No matter though...I am psyched to get back to continue working on the problem. If I can do the move once I can surely do it again. I have a feeling that when temps drop the crimps will feel a little better and the move will be a little bit more doable.

Sarah Bain Photo: The Move on The Chattanoogan

Senya and I finished up the day by doing Blind Spot V8, Diesel Power V6, and Robbing the Toothfairy V9...all super fun problems. It was a great day to be outside doing what we love...climbing on some rocks.

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