Tuesday, November 3, 2009

100 Ounces of Amazing

Its been a while since I've updated the blogpiece here. After doing Lucifer a few weeks ago I caught whatever everybody else had at the Red and had to take some time off. I didn't think that I'd be taking a week and a half off during some of the best weeks the fall has to offer but it turned out to be alright. After recovering at home for a few days Hayley and I headed to Chicago to visit my grandma and to see the sights. It was an awesome time

We headed back down to Bloomington, IL to hang out for a few more days and I did some climbing in the gym. I felt a little off climbing-wise after the time off but I quickly felt good again. On Friday we made the trip back to the Red where fall conditions are at their prime. I had my sights set on a route called 100 Ounces of Gold, formerly 5.13c. The crux hold broke a few years and it has sat unrepeated since then. My first go I took my time finding holds and figuring out a sequence. I arrived at the crux...a half pad, two finger pocket for the left, to another half pad, two finger pocket for the right. I have always been good on pockets and the two crux pockets felt quite nice...but that's probably because I have small girly fingers. The move between the pockets is quite large, but I was able to find a high foot that enabled me to lock off hard to the right hand hold. My second go was similar and on my third I was able to make it into the crux but I was too worked to pull it off.

The Gold Coast
The next day Hayley and I arrived at Solar Collector to warm up and we were greeted with perfect conditions. I quickly warmed up and made my way over to the shaded Gold Coast. I started out and I felt really good and made my way to the shake spot just before the crux. I moved into the crux, hit the left hand pocket, adjusted, then hit the right hand pocket. From there you have to reel in the right hand and do a deadpoint move to a good slopey edge. I stuck the move and made my way to the chains. Super psyched for sure!! 100 Ounces is one of my new all-time favorite routes. Sooo Good!!! As for the grade...its hard to tell. The route fit me REALLY well. A couple of others that have been on it say they feel as though it is harder than the other routes on the wall, which range up to 5.13d/14a. Like I said, my fingers fit into the pockets very well. The route would definitely be harder for those who have bigger digits. So for now, I'm calling it 5.13d/5.14a...it needs a consensus. For those of you looking for an amazing route, consider checking this one out. I highly recommend it!!

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