Saturday, September 12, 2009

Kentucky Son!

Goddamn right! It's been almost a year since I've been to the great state of Kentucky to do some rock climbing, and I gotta say, I've missed it! The amount and quality of rock is the best I've seen but its the PEOPLE that I've missed the most. Looking back on it I took the people here for granted. After being out west where the majority of people (I'm not saying everyone) won't even give you the time of day (you wave as you drive by and you just get blank stares...bullshit!) I now truly appreciate the good attitudes, supportiveness, and friendliness of the south. That's the truth!


We rolled into Miguel's campground late on Monday night and slept in a humid cloud of fog. We woke up the next morning, chatted with friends, then drove to Military Wall so Hayley could try one of the 12's on the main wall. Things were a bit damp from all the rain that has been in the area but we had a blast none-the-less. Afterwards we drove across the gorge to The Motherload. Things were a bit dryer there but it was still a bit moist. We did a few pitches and called it good.

The next day we cruised up to Drive By so I could try a fairly new route called Supercharger 5.13d. It begins with a V7 or so to a huge sit down ledge. From there it is on. You do a few chill moves off the ledge and then it is power endurance at its finest...big moves between big holds for a few bolts to a kneebar shake spot. From there you move directly into the crux, which also weighs in at around V7. This section turned out to be a bit harder than I expected and will be an awesome challenge on point. After you do the little crux boulder problem you reach a good rail where you can shake out and then embark on the last little bouldery section before the chains...nothing too serious. I'm super psyched to get back up the the Red to finish this one off.

The next day we went back to the lode and I did a really nice 12c called Heart Shaped Box. It climbs a line of pockets and crimps up awesome rock...this one stays with you till the end! I recommend it to anybody that goes to the lode looking for a badass, technical, crimpy line! Go do it!

Some photos from the week...

Nancy on Chainsaw

Danny on Convicted


Random shot of a pie I made last week

No comments:

Post a Comment