La Sportiva is putting on a contest for this year's Triple Crown Bouldering series. This is an awesome chance to try to win some shoes from THE BEST climbing shoe company around. GET ON IT!
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Goddamn right! It's been almost a year since I've been to the great state of Kentucky to do some rock climbing, and I gotta say, I've missed it! The amount and quality of rock is the best I've seen but its the PEOPLE that I've missed the most. Looking back on it I took the people here for granted. After being out west where the majority of people (I'm not saying everyone) won't even give you the time of day (you wave as you drive by and you just get blank stares...bullshit!) I now truly appreciate the good attitudes, supportiveness, and friendliness of the south. That's the truth!
We rolled into Miguel's campground late on Monday night and slept in a humid cloud of fog. We woke up the next morning, chatted with friends, then drove to Military Wall so Hayley could try one of the 12's on the main wall. Things were a bit damp from all the rain that has been in the area but we had a blast none-the-less. Afterwards we drove across the gorge to The Motherload. Things were a bit dryer there but it was still a bit moist. We did a few pitches and called it good.
The next day we cruised up to Drive By so I could try a fairly new route called Supercharger 5.13d. It begins with a V7 or so to a huge sit down ledge. From there it is on. You do a few chill moves off the ledge and then it is power endurance at its finest...big moves between big holds for a few bolts to a kneebar shake spot. From there you move directly into the crux, which also weighs in at around V7. This section turned out to be a bit harder than I expected and will be an awesome challenge on point. After you do the little crux boulder problem you reach a good rail where you can shake out and then embark on the last little bouldery section before the chains...nothing too serious. I'm super psyched to get back up the the Red to finish this one off.
The next day we went back to the lode and I did a really nice 12c called Heart Shaped Box. It climbs a line of pockets and crimps up awesome rock...this one stays with you till the end! I recommend it to anybody that goes to the lode looking for a badass, technical, crimpy line! Go do it!
Some photos from the week...
Nancy on Chainsaw
Danny on Convicted
Random shot of a pie I made last week
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Hayley and I made the drive up to Chattanooga today to do a little climbing at LRC. The forecast called for temps in the upper 80's. It goes without saying that conditions weren't prime for projects (TN in the summer...go figure), but we were psyched to get out of the house and move around. I ended up repeating a few problems like The Wave V5 and did a couple of new problems like Sternum V5 and the LRC classic The Pinch V7. All in all it was a nice day to hang out in the woods and climb on some boulders (until the rain came).
Some eye candy...
Thursday, September 3, 2009
In the past month or so Hayley and I have gone from Salt Lake, to Rifle CO, to Illinois, and now we are posted up in Georgia. Needless to say...we are OVER all the driving.
The weather was extremely mild for the two weeks that we were in Illinois and I'm hoping that it carries over into the fall. It would be awesome if the fall temps/conditions would stick around longer than two weeks like they did last year. I am starting to get amped for the journey to the Red River Gorge this fall. I'm really looking forward to all the good routes, great friends, and fun times that will be had.
On another note, I am officially registered for the 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series! Super psyched! I competed in a couple of the Horse Pens comps back in the day and they were a blast. I've wanted to visit Boone and climb at the notorious Hound's Ears boulderfield for some time now, so it is super exciting to have that in the near future.
As for now we are layin' low and doing the school thing. I'm trying to stay in shape for when the weather gets good and I am hoping to make it to the Red and LRC for at least a weekend here soon. Can't wait to get ahold of some of those slimy summer grips!
Some shots from Illinois...