Sunday, August 23, 2009

Oh My Lots of Corn

Hayley and I are now back in the flatlands of Illinois.  We decided to bail from Rifle early for a few reasons...we both started school about a week ago (kinda hard to do school while camping), we had minor injuries/little tweaks, but most of all we were ready for some down time.  It is awesome being on the road traveling, seeing new places, and climbing as much as possible.  BUT,  all the driving, running around, packing, etc. gets tiring...We are both appreciating being able to chill out in a house and are happy to not be on the go constantly.  Relaxation!  We are both going into the local gym, Upper Limits, to start getting in shape for the Red in October.  Bouldering is the name of the game right now...gotta keep that power.  I'm just hoping that I can keep some of the endurance I gained earlier this season while we climb on these short gym routes and boulder problems.  We will see...

Some shots...

Climbing Hands


Damaged Goods

Early morning fog in Iowa

The flatlands of Illinios

It all looks the same...

Monday, August 10, 2009

I did it for Ammmerrrica

Well shit...its been a while since I've updated and there has been a fever of climbing going on.  Hayley and I have been in Rifle, CO climbing and kicking it for the past week.  

Our plan is to stay here through August before making our way back east.  Things started off slowly, we were both trying to get back into the route game after taking a few weeks off from it.  After getting used to the slick limestone again I quickly got psyched on Kuru 5.14c.  The route is a link up of the Crew 5.14c and Zulu 5.14a.  You begin by doing a bouldery section that registers in at around 5.13c/d to a kneebar rest.  After this you do a little V7 or so boulder problem to join in with Zulu.  From there it is a sprint against a deep pump to the chains.  I one hung the route my second attempt and decided to wait a day to give it a good go.  My third attempt I made it through the boulder problem and fell in Zulu's redpoint crux section.  I rested for a few hours before giving it another go.  There was a nice breeze blowing through the Wicked Cave at this point and I felt good in fact that I found myself just below the
 kneebar rest before realizing that I had forgot my kneepad on the ground.  NO GOOD!
It totally threw me out of my zone and thoughts of failing ran through my head...I actually contemplating just lowering to the ground because I thought that it would be pointless to keep going.  Fortunately I was able to pull out some try hard and had one of those experiences where everything just clicks and you find yourself at the chains.  Its crazy how when you don't expect things to go well, they sometimes do.  The next day I still couldn't believe that I had done the route.  It went very quickly for me and I don't think I'll ever do another route at that difficulty that quickly.  5.14c 4th go!  PSYCHED!!!  But...its probably soft...

After a rest day my friend Hayden Kennedy and I decided to start working on The Crew 5.14c.  This route is notorious for being extremely difficult, especially after a key undercling broke on it sometime last year.  We were both able to do all the moves quickly and we are psyched to make some progress on it later this week.  

Hayden on the bottom crux of The Crew 5.14c