Monday, July 27, 2009

Check It! So Funny!

Here is a good reason why you should never give your kids video games.  The first one will give you an idea of how nuts this kid is but to get a real sense how crazy this dude is you gotta check out the second one.  Enjoy! 




Thursday, July 23, 2009

OR is Done!

So somehow I managed to qualify in 14th place this year at the Mammut Bouldering Championships, which definitely exceeded my placement expectations.  I managed to top out three out of the five problems in qualifiers and I missed making finals by two people.  I'm really stoked on how I climbed during the comp and had a blast!  I had so much fun in fact, that I'm actually considering competing more...CRAZY!  


Ryan Olsen on Problem #4

Jon Glassberg on Problem #2


Anywho...Tuesday night the finals comp was held on top of the Shilo Inn in downtown Salt Lake.  Anybody who hasn't been is missing out because it is a hell of a good time!  Hanging out, partying with friends, and watching the best climbers compete for a spot on the podium is rad! 
 
Dario and Ginley kickin' it


Hayley and I have a week left here in Salt Lake before we head to Rifle for the entire month of August!  Needless to say we are psyched.  Before we leave I am taking a much needed break from climbing...my body and mind are worked.  It is hard to climb all the time without getting a little burnt out, especially when you have to drive all the time.  The rest will be good for recovery and motivation.  There is so much I want to do in Rifle and I have a whole month to do it!  After Rifle we will be busy visiting family for the majority of September and then...its off to the Red for October and November!!!  Sooo stoked!!!  Hayley and I  are both stoked on seeing friends and we both have unfinished business there.... 

Photo:  Nathan Drolet

We are definitely looking forward to it...

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Qualifiers


Photo: Tim Kemple via boulderingcomps.com


Tomorrow I am competing in the qualifiers for the Mammut Bouldering Championships here in Salt Lake.  The competition is STACKED and I'm excited to see where I'll place.  I have no expectations really since I'm not that great at competing in comps and because I've been primarily route climbing since May.  Who knows though...maybe my endurance will help me out.  All I hope is that I climb as well as can.  My goal is 38th or better in order to beat my placement last year.  HA!  We'll see what happens...

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Zulu

Sorry for the lack of updates...there is a LOT going on right now.

Hayley and I have spent most of the past week in Rifle, CO climbing and hanging out.  After our first weekend trip we felt like we had the style a little bit more figured out and we were both more confident, and as most of you know, confidence is key.

On our first trip I had tried Zulu, a classic 5.14a put up by Chris Sharma back in the day.  The bottom of the route is really bouldery with big moves on big holds. The middle section is all endurance climbing which takes you to a little bit of crimpy, techy climbing up high.  At the beginning of last week some of the holds were seeping due to the ridiculous amount of rain that we've been getting, and I couldn't get through the crux on point because of it.

I stayed away from Zulu for a few days and focused on some easier climbs.  My friend Peewee, who I met last year in Maple, was there and he was psyched to give me beta so I could try to flash a few routes.  First up was a route in the Arsenal called the Path 5.13c.  I ended up falling three moves from the chains but ended up doing it next go.  Kind of a bummer but I'm still psyched.  The next day he gave me beta on another 5.13c called Fluff Boy.  This time I managed to do the route first go!  It is definitely a good feeling knowing you can flash a hard route.  It gives me an extra confidence boost for sure...

Our next climbing day was perfect.  We woke up to blue skies and crisp temps in the morning.  After slowly warming up I wanted to try Zulu.  I felt close on my previous attempts but was thwarted by wet holds.  On this attempt I felt terrible in the bottom half of the route...I felt heavy, I was hitting holds wrong, and I was tired.  I arrived at a rest and I was able to relax myself enough to focus on the route and make it to the chains!  Just goes to show you that you still have to try even when you don't feel your best.

Victory Beer for Me!

Right now Hayley and I are making plans for the next few months...big things are gonna happen!  SOOO PSYCHED!  Keep ya posted...