Friday, June 19, 2009

Takin Em Down

Last week I had the chance to get on a route called Divine Fury 5.14b.  After cleaning the holds and figuring out the moves I was freaking out at how good the route was.  On my second redpoint attempt I managed to two hang the rig.  I felt pretty confident that I would be able to do the route quickly and left that night to go back home, psyched to return.  Hayley and I returned Wednesday morning psyched to try our projects...Hayley almost FLOATED her project, Deliverance 5.12c, her first try of the day, only to fall after the crux because of a foot slip.  Just to let everybody know...don't ever ask her for beta on this is heinous.  That is unless you like matching on small two finger pockets..a.k.a.. mono matching.  Definitely not for was my turn and I jumped on Divine Fury.  I made it through an awkward kneebar, reach move down low and sprinted my way through the next 30 or so feet to get to a big rest.  From there, you have one really big lockoff move, to a v4 or v5 crux, to pumpy 5.11+ climbing.  I managed to make my way to the chains to pull of the 3rd burn send!  PSYCHED!

I guess technically you could say I did the route in 3.2 tries...Let me explain...

A few weeks ago I hopped on the first 15 feet and got shut down on the 'awkward kneebar, reach move'  so I bailed.  I count this as .2 attempts since it was only the first 15 feet

I tried the route again a week ago and made my way to the chains, cleaning and figuring out the moves...which equals 1 real burn to me

I jumped on it again the same day and managed to two hang it...2 tries

Send go=3rd go

I'm sure some people will have a problem with my math so call it 4 tries if it really irritates you that much...anyways...

Hayley then got on Deliverance 5.12c again and managed to pull through her heinous method and clipped chains!  So happy for her...I know she tried hard on this one!

The next day I tried a route called T-Rex 5.14b.  It is another extension off of Millennium 5.13d.  I managed to do that route first try as well...however I couldn't tell you how many times I have been on Millenium... I had also done the extension section the day before when doing a route called Mexican Rodeo...pretty psyched for sure. Basically I just had to put the two sections together.  I ended up doing a few other routes during our two day trip like Don't Mess With Texas and Mexican Rodeo...both in the 5.13c/d range.

Next week we are off to Rifle for a few days.  I've never climbed there before so I am BEYOND psyched!  


  1. So you onsighted the extension?

  2. i had beta from a friend...i forgot to mention that i had done the extension the day before on Mexican i guess i flashed the extension...just not when i was trying t-rex...that was kinda misleading...i went back to correct it though...good lookin' out!

  3. dude, sounds like you and Hayley are continuing to tear it up. so rad. 3.2 tries ... that actually made me laugh out loud. thanks. hayley's 12c - super awesome! my dream is a 12c at the red - stain... i'm sure you've climbed it. i'll have 3 months of climbing full time under my belt by the time i get out to RRG in oct, so here's hoping!