Sunday, June 14, 2009


For starters...the shots of the garage crag...

Well damn...what a weekend. Hayley, Kevin, and I headed down to Maple Canyon Thursday morning.  We were greeted with  thunderstorms that let up long enough for us to make the hike up to Pipedream without getting wet.  We quickly warmed up in the FRIGID June temps and hopped on our projects.  My goal for the trip was to send Pipedream 5.14a, which is an extension to Wyoming Sheep Shagger 5.13d, a route I had done a week prior.  I fell low my first go after breaking off a foot in the crux.  I lowered and rested 5 minutes before jumping on route again.  This time I pulled through the crux and found myself resting a few moves before the extension's crux.  The crux involves a deadpoint move off a slopey left hand undercling and a good right hand crimp...the crux itself is probably around v4 or v5....nothing too heinous but just enough to where you have to keep your hustle tight.  I made it through the boulder problem and made it to a HUGE jug rail where I recovered and made it the rest of the way up to route to clip chains!  PSYCHED!  The next day my goal was to put some good links on Eulogy 5.14a/b...once again Eulogy is an extension...this time it takes Millennium 5.13d/14a into the same extension as Pipedream.  Since I had done both sections previously I figured I had a good chance at doing the route turns out I did the route quicker than I thought and pulled out the send first go on link.  Once again...PSYCHED!  After doing Eulogy my friend Shannon gave me beta for Toxic Turkey 5.13c so I could try to flash it.  I was tired but I somehow managed to pull out the try-hard and made it to the chains...AGAIN...PSYCHEEEDDDD!!!  Things are coming together for sure!  Yesterday was our last day of the trip and I wanted to work out the moves on Divine Fury 5.14b.  I tried the route a little bit last week and lowered after getting shut down on the bottom kneebar move...this time I was armed with a pad and it made the move much easier and I was able to get to the real climbing.  Basically this route is the shit!  Sooo rad!  Long, bouldery, BIG moves, has it all.  I was able to 2 hang it my 2nd try (not counting trying the first 15 feet one day prior).  It is exactly what I am looking for....I'm heading down Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday so we'll see what happens...

Some shots from the last few weekends...

Hayley dispatching Grip Tease 5.12a...Photo: Kevin Todd

The new RIG...just a little guy

Busy day up at the Pipedream Cave

Isaac Caldiero on Sheep Shagger 5.13d

Jon Starr...enough said

Kevin chillin' after killin Sprout 5.13a

Rocco lookin' good

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