Sunday, May 10, 2009

Sweet and Sour

After two rest days I went back down to Maple Canyon with the goal of sending Millenium 5.14a.  I had gotten close last year on my short visit during the summer tradeshow and had put in my first day of reworking it Tuesday.  I walked away Tuesday surprised and happy that I had pulled off the one-hang.  Much more progress than I had hoped for.  Friday was a bit chillier than it had been a few days prior so warming up took some time.  I jumped on Millenium to go bolt to bolt in order to remember my beta and to hang a static line for my buddy Kevin.  I lowered and thought I had no shot at sending the route or even one-hanging it again that day.   After resting a while I jumped on again...no expectations.  The bottom felt horrible and I was fairly pumped as soon as I entered the route's steep territory.  I managed to sink into the double kneebar and finally found the sweet spot which allowed me to relax for a brief moment.  I came out of the rest and found myself at the crux again...but this time I wasn't nearly as pumped or tired as I had been previously.  I grabbed the good right hand pinch, set up my feet, and stared down the good left hand fingerbucket as I popped for it.  I was surprised to find myself still on and I suddenly went into that mode where your body just kinda takes over...moving swiftly and efficiently.  

Millenium's Crux

I made a big move up to a big cobble sloper/jug and shook out while I relaxed myself enough to do the final three moves.  



I made sure to set up my feet right and found my pumped-as-hell self clipping chains!   This is a huge step for my current route game.  It gave me the confidence I need to try hard on a rope again.  PSYCHED!


Hayley has been making incredible progress recently as well.  She's getting really close on Deliverance 5.12c/d.  Awesome...especially considering its kinda her anti-style...big moves.  Sick!

Deliverance 5.12c/d

I was on my way out to Maple to meet up with friends Cam, Kelly, and Kevin after dropping Hayley off at the airport last night and decided to pull over to get some dinner.  I pulled into the left turn lane and scooted into the intersection with the light green and dreamed of my delicious Little Caesar's pizza that was waiting for me (for only $5 too!).  The light turned yellow and I waited for the oncoming traffic to stop at the light.  I saw everybody stop and proceeded to turn left only to see a car gun it through the intersection through my periph.  I braced myself for the impact and it seemed like forever...I even thought they missed me until....KABLOW!!!  TOTALED!!!  Rocco got tossed around the car and I was dazed yet okay.  This was my first accident and the whole situation is a complete blur.  On top of all of it I was in Spanish Fork, my friends were out of cell phone range (being in Maple Canyon), and I couldn't get ahold of my roommates.  FUCKED!  Completely and totally fucked...I even had some random guy invite me into his home...Luckily I got ahold of my roommates friend and he was able to make the hour trip to scoop me and Rocco up.  He definitely saved our asses...super grateful for sure.  Unfortunately I am now carless and semi stranded.  I have to work every day this week too...This is my hell week.  I am contemplating buying a plane ticket out to Georgia to meet up with Hayley so we can go to the Red for a week to chill out and wait for the insurance/car situation to work itself out.  We are hoping that everything goes smoothly and hopefully we will have a replacement for Keebler soon....

6 comments:

  1. Bummer! Accidents really suck, glad to hear that you are ok.

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  2. sick work, maple looks super rade...
    mad props to killin it in the bouldering and route game.
    -Nate Draughn

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  3. sick work, maple looks super rade...
    mad props to killin it in the bouldering and route game.
    -Nate Draughn

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  4. Yeah accidents are no bueno...couldn've been much worse though...def lucky

    Thanks Nate!

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  5. Sorry about he car man, never good to work through this shiz.

    FYI the norm in Utah is to proceed through the light until it is red. I know, it's bullshit and unsafe, but that's how these retards do it, sorry you learned the hardway.

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  6. I always try to tell people driving is more dangerous than climbing. glad you're alright man, at least you sent!

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