Monday, May 25, 2009

Powerade Mountain Blast

Powerade Mountain Blast=AmAzInG!!!!   Anyways...

I finally got to check out a crag just outside of SLC called the Narrows.  The one thing that I had heard about the Narrows is that it was home to a hard route called the Big Smile.  It was originally rated 5.14a but holds have since broken.  I believe that the only person to repeat the route since the break is James Litz.  I've heard that the grade of the route now lies in the 5.14b/c range.  I tried a route called TKO, a sustained 5.13a/b.  My first burn I got shut down hard...taking at every bolt.  I didn't really put two and two together until I reached the ground...TKO...Technical Knockout...the name says it all.  My ANTI-STYLE.  I swore that I would never be able to do the route and we had to bail before I got a second burn because the slow drizzle that came and went throughout the day decided to stay.  We went back the following day and my buddy Kevin hung the draws and brushed some holds.  I got my chance to try the route and I actually made it to the chains....sick route!  If  you ever find yourself at the Narrows it is a must do.  The river underneath the Big Smile was raging but I really wanted to go up the route, feel the holds, and get a feel for the moves.  Luckily we had our trusty stick clip!!!  We rigged up a fancy belay station and I stick clipped my way up the route.  I didn't even do a move but I have my verdict...holy hard!  Technical, barely overhung, and bouldery. When the river goes down and I'm able to get a solid belay I'd like to test out some of the moves...I'm betting that it feels impossible!

I was also able to make it to Logan Canyon for a quick day trip.  The style is bouldery, pumpy, and HARD.  I tried a route called Whiteout 5.13d a couple times and it was heinous.  Bouldery start to a bouldery finish.  I wasn't really able to figure out the middle crux sequence which revolved around a right hand crimp to a big move to a two finger pocket.  If anybody has any beta it would be sweet...The next day it rained so we had a good gym session in Cam's newly built garage.  I'm trying to stay bouldering strong for the tradeshow comp this August.  My goal is to place higher than last year...38th or better and I'm psyched!  HA!  

1 comment:

  1. What up Waver?
    I will definitely keep you posted on my travel plans... it would be DOPE to get some footage of you crushing some routes out the the masses...Peace!

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