Wednesday, May 6, 2009


I've been busy the past few days lending a hand building a sick new woodie in my buddy Cam's place (aka I've been busy setting problems while everybody else puts their construction skills to use).  I gotta say that this is one of the sickest home walls I've ever seen...and its not even finished  yet!

Early Stages of the Wall  (more to come...)

Yesterday the weather was perfect and I had been hearing that Maple Canyon had dried out so we made the journey.  Last year I visited Maple briefly while I was out here for the summer tradeshow and had gotten close on Millennium 5.13d/14a.  My endurance definitely isn't where it was last summer so I had no expectations for the day.  We warmed up at the Minimum Wall and then made the 15 minute hike up to the Pipedream Cave.  For those who haven't been, the Pipedream is AMAZING!  For sure the longest, steepest cave I've makes the Madness Cave look only slighly overhung.  I jumped on Deliverance 5.12c to warm up more and ended up doing it first go...felt good to do something first go.

Afterwards I slowly went up Millennium trying to remember my beta.  I rested for a while and impatiently jumped on route for another go.  This time I made my way out the first steep roof section and found myself at the crux...PUMPED!!!  I grabbed a good right hand pinch, set my feet up, and popped for a good incut.  I was full redline at this point and didn't manage to snag the hold.  Still psyched though because I made my way to the top after that for the one-hang.  Nothing too big but still good for the route shape I am currently in.

I decided to hop on Orgasmo 5.12c at the end of the day.  I figured it could only help my enduro cause.  It was ugly but I managed to flash it.

I'm off to Maple again Friday so hopefully I can make something happen...

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