Monday, May 25, 2009

Powerade Mountain Blast

Powerade Mountain Blast=AmAzInG!!!!   Anyways...

I finally got to check out a crag just outside of SLC called the Narrows.  The one thing that I had heard about the Narrows is that it was home to a hard route called the Big Smile.  It was originally rated 5.14a but holds have since broken.  I believe that the only person to repeat the route since the break is James Litz.  I've heard that the grade of the route now lies in the 5.14b/c range.  I tried a route called TKO, a sustained 5.13a/b.  My first burn I got shut down hard...taking at every bolt.  I didn't really put two and two together until I reached the ground...TKO...Technical Knockout...the name says it all.  My ANTI-STYLE.  I swore that I would never be able to do the route and we had to bail before I got a second burn because the slow drizzle that came and went throughout the day decided to stay.  We went back the following day and my buddy Kevin hung the draws and brushed some holds.  I got my chance to try the route and I actually made it to the chains....sick route!  If  you ever find yourself at the Narrows it is a must do.  The river underneath the Big Smile was raging but I really wanted to go up the route, feel the holds, and get a feel for the moves.  Luckily we had our trusty stick clip!!!  We rigged up a fancy belay station and I stick clipped my way up the route.  I didn't even do a move but I have my verdict...holy hard!  Technical, barely overhung, and bouldery. When the river goes down and I'm able to get a solid belay I'd like to test out some of the moves...I'm betting that it feels impossible!

I was also able to make it to Logan Canyon for a quick day trip.  The style is bouldery, pumpy, and HARD.  I tried a route called Whiteout 5.13d a couple times and it was heinous.  Bouldery start to a bouldery finish.  I wasn't really able to figure out the middle crux sequence which revolved around a right hand crimp to a big move to a two finger pocket.  If anybody has any beta it would be sweet...The next day it rained so we had a good gym session in Cam's newly built garage.  I'm trying to stay bouldering strong for the tradeshow comp this August.  My goal is to place higher than last year...38th or better and I'm psyched!  HA!  

Monday, May 18, 2009


Been pretty busy with all the accident bullshit/have been stuck since I don't have a vehicle for another a chance to get out to Maple recently. I took flash burn on Wyoming Sheep Shagger 5.13d and got further than I thought I would. I've heard that the hardest move in the Pipedream Cave was on the Shagger and I got the complete spraydown before my attempt. I made it through the business and was making my way into where it links into Millenium but I was beyond pumped and fell throwing for a non-existent hold. Afterwards I jumped on The Great Feast 5.13c/d. I tried this route last year a little bit but didn't manage to do it during my short visit. I didn't really remember any beta but managed push to the last bolt before pumping out completely. I jumped on a few more routes to finish off the day to really set in the pump. I woke up the next day and felt like I had been hit by a everything was sore! We spent the day at a shorter, more bouldery wall in the Left Fork area where I managed to onsight or flash several twelves. Not too much going on for now...just staying psyched and mostly training inside. Here in a week when I have a vehicle again I'll be making my way to Maple, Logan, and the Narrows every chance I get. My plate is full!!! Once again...stick with me...

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Sweet and Sour

After two rest days I went back down to Maple Canyon with the goal of sending Millenium 5.14a.  I had gotten close last year on my short visit during the summer tradeshow and had put in my first day of reworking it Tuesday.  I walked away Tuesday surprised and happy that I had pulled off the one-hang.  Much more progress than I had hoped for.  Friday was a bit chillier than it had been a few days prior so warming up took some time.  I jumped on Millenium to go bolt to bolt in order to remember my beta and to hang a static line for my buddy Kevin.  I lowered and thought I had no shot at sending the route or even one-hanging it again that day.   After resting a while I jumped on expectations.  The bottom felt horrible and I was fairly pumped as soon as I entered the route's steep territory.  I managed to sink into the double kneebar and finally found the sweet spot which allowed me to relax for a brief moment.  I came out of the rest and found myself at the crux again...but this time I wasn't nearly as pumped or tired as I had been previously.  I grabbed the good right hand pinch, set up my feet, and stared down the good left hand fingerbucket as I popped for it.  I was surprised to find myself still on and I suddenly went into that mode where your body just kinda takes over...moving swiftly and efficiently.  

Millenium's Crux

I made a big move up to a big cobble sloper/jug and shook out while I relaxed myself enough to do the final three moves.  

I made sure to set up my feet right and found my pumped-as-hell self clipping chains!   This is a huge step for my current route game.  It gave me the confidence I need to try hard on a rope again.  PSYCHED!

Hayley has been making incredible progress recently as well.  She's getting really close on Deliverance 5.12c/d.  Awesome...especially considering its kinda her anti-style...big moves.  Sick!

Deliverance 5.12c/d

I was on my way out to Maple to meet up with friends Cam, Kelly, and Kevin after dropping Hayley off at the airport last night and decided to pull over to get some dinner.  I pulled into the left turn lane and scooted into the intersection with the light green and dreamed of my delicious Little Caesar's pizza that was waiting for me (for only $5 too!).  The light turned yellow and I waited for the oncoming traffic to stop at the light.  I saw everybody stop and proceeded to turn left only to see a car gun it through the intersection through my periph.  I braced myself for the impact and it seemed like forever...I even thought they missed me until....KABLOW!!!  TOTALED!!!  Rocco got tossed around the car and I was dazed yet okay.  This was my first accident and the whole situation is a complete blur.  On top of all of it I was in Spanish Fork, my friends were out of cell phone range (being in Maple Canyon), and I couldn't get ahold of my roommates.  FUCKED!  Completely and totally fucked...I even had some random guy invite me into his home...Luckily I got ahold of my roommates friend and he was able to make the hour trip to scoop me and Rocco up.  He definitely saved our asses...super grateful for sure.  Unfortunately I am now carless and semi stranded.  I have to work every day this week too...This is my hell week.  I am contemplating buying a plane ticket out to Georgia to meet up with Hayley so we can go to the Red for a week to chill out and wait for the insurance/car situation to work itself out.  We are hoping that everything goes smoothly and hopefully we will have a replacement for Keebler soon....

Wednesday, May 6, 2009


I've been busy the past few days lending a hand building a sick new woodie in my buddy Cam's place (aka I've been busy setting problems while everybody else puts their construction skills to use).  I gotta say that this is one of the sickest home walls I've ever seen...and its not even finished  yet!

Early Stages of the Wall  (more to come...)

Yesterday the weather was perfect and I had been hearing that Maple Canyon had dried out so we made the journey.  Last year I visited Maple briefly while I was out here for the summer tradeshow and had gotten close on Millennium 5.13d/14a.  My endurance definitely isn't where it was last summer so I had no expectations for the day.  We warmed up at the Minimum Wall and then made the 15 minute hike up to the Pipedream Cave.  For those who haven't been, the Pipedream is AMAZING!  For sure the longest, steepest cave I've makes the Madness Cave look only slighly overhung.  I jumped on Deliverance 5.12c to warm up more and ended up doing it first go...felt good to do something first go.

Afterwards I slowly went up Millennium trying to remember my beta.  I rested for a while and impatiently jumped on route for another go.  This time I made my way out the first steep roof section and found myself at the crux...PUMPED!!!  I grabbed a good right hand pinch, set my feet up, and popped for a good incut.  I was full redline at this point and didn't manage to snag the hold.  Still psyched though because I made my way to the top after that for the one-hang.  Nothing too big but still good for the route shape I am currently in.

I decided to hop on Orgasmo 5.12c at the end of the day.  I figured it could only help my enduro cause.  It was ugly but I managed to flash it.

I'm off to Maple again Friday so hopefully I can make something happen...