Tuesday, April 14, 2009


So Saturday morning we drove down to Joe's with the intention of finishing off some projects.  Well...Hayley had the intentions of finishing off her project.  I didn't have anything that I was super psyched to try.  She managed to take down Sun in My Eyes Right V6 with authority.  KILLED IT!  We went to an area I hadn't been to so I could try The Hulk V8.  I had heard good things about this problem so I figured I'd check it out.  Super cool problem...something straight out of the gym.  Afterwards we made our way to the Garden of Eden area so I could try Eden V10 again and so Hayley could try Anatomy Acts V7.  I managed to do my problem 2nd try...it definitely came out of nowhere and I'm psyched to have completed it.

Ian Dory taking down Eden V10

The rest of the day was pretty chill.  I blew my flash of The Knocking Room V9...falling/giving up on the last move.  It's all good though because I ended up doing it next go.  Classic crimp problem...my steez.  

Holds on The Knocking Room V9

Getting shut down on Hooters V9

My motivation for climbing at Joe's has dropped significantly.  I think it's time for a change in my routine.  I'm really psyched to start sport climbing again.  I miss the challenge of keeping it all together on long routes, linking sections, and finally clipping chains.  Yesterday Hayley and I made the journey up to American Fork for the first time.  We hiked for over an hour trying to find a wall called The Billboard.  Gnarly uphill scrambling until we lost our way.

The List (Billboard):

Blue Mask 5.13c
The Shining 5.13c
Hard Blues 5.14a

We finally bailed on that adventure and went to Hell wall.  The first half of most of the routes were dry but the tops were still dripping.  

A terrible shot of Hell Cave

Another month or so and they'll be in prime condition.  I'm super psyched on some routes at Hell/Diablo Wall.  

The List (Hell):

Frying 5.13c
Dead Souls 5.13d
Cop Killer 5.13d
Body Count 5.13d
Cannibals Direct 5.14a
I Scream 5.14b/c ???

I'm off to the gym tonight to try to get some endurance.  I can't recover on route for shit.  I turn 21 next Sunday too!  The following weekend Hayley, some friends, and I are heading to St. George.  Cathedral!  Psyched! 


  1. If I would have hiked to the billboard and not actually got there I would probably kill someone.


  2. I was pissed. The directions in the guidebook are half-assed. It says that the directions are hard to describe so they weren't even going to bother trying. Really?!?! I thought that was the purpose of a guide book. My mistake. I have directions now so I'm psyched. I'm trying to get back up there after this rain stops. Hopefully it won't ruin everything.