Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Sick Pics

Here are some photos my buddy Kevin Todd took yesterday while we were having a session in LCC.  He's an extremely talented photographer who is passionate about his work.  Plus he's only been shooting for a year or so.  PROPS!  Yesterday was my 5th day on and I somehow managed to do some cool problems.

The Buzz V8

Bronson's Arete V8

Today I went out to A.F. with the intention of banging out some pitches.  I didn't take into account that I haven't climbed 5 days on in a LONG time so my day ended quickly.  I'd like to get out this weekend but the weather is looking kinda iffy.  My buddy Cam is in the process of building a SICK woody in his MASSIVE garage so I'll probably make my way over to give a hand.  This will be my new area to sesh in once it is complete.  

Tomorrow rest day, Thursday climbing...

Monday, April 27, 2009


Goal for this past weekend-climb a route called Treebeard 5.13c up at the Cathedral in Southern Utah.  Goal accomplished.  After my brutal warmup, which resulted in me getting insanely pumped, I got the complete beta spraydown from Joe.  I had no expectations when I started the route but I quickly found myself past the crux-resting on a big jug.  My mind started to get into the flash-jitter mode at this point.  You know...you start to realize that you have a chance at flashing something, you start to breath heavy, and you tell yourself to keep it together and not screw something up.  I think I managed to rest on every good hold I came across...SOOO pumped!  I kept it together long enough to clip chains!  This is my first flash of the grade and I'm definitely stoked, but I think I'm more psyched on the fact that I am feeling comfortable on different styles of climbing.  Limestone climbs so much differently than sandstone so adapting to it is a totally new experience for me.  

Some pics from the weekend:

Chuckawalla Wall

The Cathedral

Cam and Kelly

Our Current Setup

Monday, April 20, 2009

Pumpy Pumpy

Lack of updates recently.  I've been busy working and climbing when I can.  I got out to LCC the other day with Cam and Kelly.  I finally got to try a problem called Bear Hug Sit V8.  Super cool compression problem on rad slopers.  

Bear Hug Sit V8

Sunday we went out to do some rope climbing, which I was super psyched about.  We journeyed out to a crag in Echo Canyon called The Dry Wall.  The climbing was slightly overhung cobble pulling.  It was a lot like Maple Canyon, but wasn't quite as long.  I was psyched to try and get in as many pitches as I could and actually ended up having a no fall day.  I am trying hard to get at least a little endurance before my 4 day trip to St. George this weekend.  I went to the gym tonight and focused on getting pumped and trying to recover - up and down climbing problems and then trying to recover on a jug. I think it worked quite well for endurance training in a boulder gym because I'm still pumped as I type.  My main goal this weekend is to try a climb called Treebeard 5.13c.  I figure this is a good starting point for getting back into route shape.   On another note my buddy/photog fiend Kevin Todd is moving out here this Thursday, so I should have some awesome photos posted more frequently.  Things are finally starting to dry out here around Salt Lake so there should be more updates on a regular basis.  Stick with me...

Cam working Lance's Dihedral V6

Utah Sunset over Salt Lake

Tuesday, April 14, 2009


So Saturday morning we drove down to Joe's with the intention of finishing off some projects.  Well...Hayley had the intentions of finishing off her project.  I didn't have anything that I was super psyched to try.  She managed to take down Sun in My Eyes Right V6 with authority.  KILLED IT!  We went to an area I hadn't been to so I could try The Hulk V8.  I had heard good things about this problem so I figured I'd check it out.  Super cool problem...something straight out of the gym.  Afterwards we made our way to the Garden of Eden area so I could try Eden V10 again and so Hayley could try Anatomy Acts V7.  I managed to do my problem 2nd try...it definitely came out of nowhere and I'm psyched to have completed it.

Ian Dory taking down Eden V10

The rest of the day was pretty chill.  I blew my flash of The Knocking Room V9...falling/giving up on the last move.  It's all good though because I ended up doing it next go.  Classic crimp problem...my steez.  

Holds on The Knocking Room V9

Getting shut down on Hooters V9

My motivation for climbing at Joe's has dropped significantly.  I think it's time for a change in my routine.  I'm really psyched to start sport climbing again.  I miss the challenge of keeping it all together on long routes, linking sections, and finally clipping chains.  Yesterday Hayley and I made the journey up to American Fork for the first time.  We hiked for over an hour trying to find a wall called The Billboard.  Gnarly uphill scrambling until we lost our way.

The List (Billboard):

Blue Mask 5.13c
The Shining 5.13c
Hard Blues 5.14a

We finally bailed on that adventure and went to Hell wall.  The first half of most of the routes were dry but the tops were still dripping.  

A terrible shot of Hell Cave

Another month or so and they'll be in prime condition.  I'm super psyched on some routes at Hell/Diablo Wall.  

The List (Hell):

Frying 5.13c
Dead Souls 5.13d
Cop Killer 5.13d
Body Count 5.13d
Cannibals Direct 5.14a
I Scream 5.14b/c ???

I'm off to the gym tonight to try to get some endurance.  I can't recover on route for shit.  I turn 21 next Sunday too!  The following weekend Hayley, some friends, and I are heading to St. George.  Cathedral!  Psyched! 

Sunday, April 12, 2009


I'm off to Joe's this morning.  Woke up at 6:30...it's now 7.  Hayley is still in bed....Shit.


Sunday, April 5, 2009

Ain't I

Saturday night Hayley and I made the trip to Joe's Valley.  As we drove into Orangeville, just outside of Joe's, there was snow covering everything.  We weren't super psyched but crashed and hoped for the best the next morning.

We woke up the next morning and drove to New Joe's hoping for better conditions.  We lucked out and it was PERFECT...40 degrees and sunny.  Friction was good and psych was high.

Cam trying Will's A Fire V6

Hayley was psyched to try Sun in My Eyes Right V6.  She had worked on it on our prior trip and was psyched to figure out the rest of the moves and try to link it together.  She managed to pull out some ninja beta and was able to piece it into 2 sections.  Unfortunately she wasn't able to put it all together but we will go back and she will crush it next time for sure.

Cam flashing Self-Service V5

Hayley on some V7 before breaking a key hold.

After our morning session at New Joe's we made our way over to the Right Sign Area so I could try to finish off We Call Him Michael V11.  There was one move stopping me from doing it the last time I was there...a big jump move to a big bucket.  I made an effort to work on dynamic moves at the gym, hoping that it would help me with problems like this.  My first couple goes I fell on the throw, hitting the hold low.  I rested for 5 minutes and gave it another go.  I tried to overshoot the hold and managed to hit it perfectly.  My feet swung out, I held the swing, and I was able to top out the boulder.  This problem was really hard for my first session on it and I am psyched it went down smoothly yesterday.  I feel like I am still progressing, which is awesome.  For awhile there I felt like I was on a plateau and I couldn't get psyched.  Yesterday was a good confidence booster for me.

Cam working Golden Plates V7

Before we headed back home I went up to try Gentleman's Project V11.  Things went well and I managed to match the crux hold for a few seconds before peeling away from the wall.  Super psyched on this problem...can't wait to get back.

I'm about to head to LCC to try to find some dry rock.  If all else fails I will head back to Ching and proceed to blow my tips to hell...again.  I'm also psyched to keep taking photos.  I feel like they're slowly coming along...