Tuesday, March 3, 2009


For the past few days Hayley and I have been in Joe's Valley hanging out with our friends Joe and Colette.  The weather during our visit was PERFECT - mid 50's and partly cloudy.  Sunday started off kinda slow.  We chilled around the campsite, drinking coffee and getting psyched for the rest of the day.  It was a nice change from the typical - wake up, eat quickly, get moving routine.  After a nice warm up the first area we were psyched to visit was the Man Size area.  A boulder problem called Fingerhut V10, a perfect 45 degree crimpy face, is perched up on the hillside.  One of my goals for the trip was to give the problem a good flash attempt. I quickly threw down pads and got psyched for my first attempt.  I pulled on and made the first move to a good incut crimp.  I pulled up, locked off, and brought my foot up to the starting hold.  The next move is a hard cross to a bad edge, which I managed to snag.  I set my feet up, really focusing on holding the bad edge with my left hand, and made the toss for a good fingerbucket.  I was super suprised when I felt my fingers latch onto the hold.  One more move and I was at a huge jug topping out.  Flashing hard problems is something I am not very good at.  I either botch it completely or I come agonizingly close, so I am extremely happy to have finally pulled it out for once.

After that we rolled over to the Big Joe sector to try a problem called Smokin' Joe, a thuggy V9.  I have come to the realization over the past few weeks that I suck at;
A.) underclings
B.) unwinding/exploding off of anything that isn't downward pulling

Smokin' Joe starts off of two underclings in a roof...which, as I just stated, fit me PERFECTLY.  Joe quickly dispatched the problem while I had to figure out my jacked beta.  I couldn't seem to get my feet to work for me so I ended up just campusing through the problem...not the best technique...but it worked so I'm psyched.  Joe was psyched to check out The Worm Turns V11 after that so we went over and checked it out.  The Worm Turns is SICK.  The problem climbs a tufa (yup...sandstone tufa) out of a steep cave feature.  After playing around with a few sets of beta we were both close.  On one of my attempts I bumped my left hand up the tufa into a good pinch and heard a pop in my middle finger-a pop like a knuckle getting popped.  It scared the PISS out of me.  I decided it didn't hurt and continued up the problem, but failed to do it.  I sat there for a few minutes and knew something didn't feel right.  The knuckle closest to my fingernail felt stiff...no pain...just stiff.  I felt like puking...I really thought I had done something to it.  I proceeded to TWEAK out.  Luckily Joe, Colette, and Hayley chilled me out a bit.  Joe and Colette have had finger injuries previously and assured me it was no big deal..just a little strain.  I chilled for the rest of the day to make sure I wasn't going to mess it up further.  Joe ended up killing the problem after a few more tries.  NICE!

The stiffness went away later that night, just like they predicted.  Thank God!  I was so sketched out.  The next day I warmed up extremely slowly to make sure everything in my finger was A OK.  I am extremely psyched that everything turned out okay (knock on wood).  This scare is a great reminder of how fortunate I am to be healthy (once again...knock on wood).

Hayley doin' what she does...crimpin'

The crew decided to split up for the day.  Joe, his buddy Kurt, and I decided to stay in Joe's while Hayley and Colette went to New Joe's.  My main objective for the day was to do a problem called Jitterbug Perfume V11.  Hiking up to the problem you can see how AWESOME the boulder is.  I haven't seen anything like it before.  A beautiful gray, scooped out wall with perfect Joe's Valley crimps.  My first go I grabbed the starting holds, pulled on, moved my right hand to a sharp crimpy pinch, moved my left hand to an intermediate, and fell popping for the good left hand gastone edge.  This sequence happened a few more times before I stuck the left hand gastone and was able to top out the boulder.  What an AMAZING boulder problem.  

Trent's Mom V10 was next on the list.  This problem is damn hard for me.  The opening of the problem is a big move off an undercling (greaaattt) to a good jug.  After a few transition moves you deadpoint into a vertical seam, adjust feet, and throw to a lip.  A perfect problem for the mutant gym kids.  Like I said previously I suck at underclings and unwinding/exploding from strange positions.  This problem is basically my ANTI-style. Needless to say I didn't do it...I couldn't seem to unwind in order to jump to the big rail.  But the problem is badass!  Joe got super close as well so hopefully he'll be psyched to go back next weekend.  

Joe makin' a move on Trent's Mom

I feel wrecked today so I'm resting. I'm hoping to make it up to LCC so I can try The Dominatrix again. My buddy Nathan is flying out Friday for his spring break and I'm psyched! It's gonna be sick...

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