Saturday, March 14, 2009

America's Playground

I made the trip to Joe's Valley (a.k.a. America's Playground) for a day trip on Friday.  It was some of the most fun that I've had in a while. 

 
We warmed up at the Boysize Area where my buddies Nathan and Cam attempted Boy Size V6 and Golden Plates V7.  They both got close on these two rad problems.

Cam stuntin'
 
Boysize V6


Nathan googlin'

Golden Plates V7

Hayley mean muggin'


After our warm up sesh we rolled over to the Mansize Area so I could try Scrawny & Brawny V10.  I looked at this problem when I did Fingerhut a week ago and thought that I had a good chance at flashing it.  The problem is very simple...take two terrible starting crimps, put your feet on, and pop to a good sloping edge.  After that you make two campus moves on finger buckets before topping out.  My first go I surprised myself by sticking the first move.  I thought that if I stuck that move I'd be able to do it without any trouble.  Unfortunately my surprise led to tunnel vision and I missed a key hold out right.  I was frustrated that I had blown my flash but it wasn't the end of the world.  I jumped on right away for my second go.  I stuck the hold, campused out right to the good hold, and dabbed on Hayley.  Shit!  I was now even more frustrated and jumped on again immediately.  This time I managed to make my way to the top.  I would have been really psyched to have flashed this problem but what are you gonna do....can't win 'em all.  

Scrawny & Brawny V10

We headed to an area I hadn't been to next called the Garden of Eden.  I was interested in the classic Anatomy Act V7, Save Yourself V9,  and a problem I had seen video of simply called Eden V10.  I ended up flashing Anatomy Act and Save Yourself, but not before getting the shit scared out of me while topping out Save Yourself.  The problem is fairly tall and I was not very psyched to mantle at that height.  I was tempted to hop down but Nathan kept me psyched... "In it to win it"  haha.  Awesome.  After my tweak out on Save Yourself I made sure to eye the hell out of Eden's topout.  Eden is slightly taller, and at about 20 feet, it intimidated the hell out of me.  I told myself I'd give it one go and if I didn't do it I'd come back for it.  I made it past the easier section and up into the crux.  Unfortunately I had sketched myself out and couldn't make myself commit.  Oh well though...I tried.

Cam attempting Big Joe V7

I was feeling pretty wrecked at this point but was stoked to make my way back to The Worm Turns V11.  I tried this problem about a week ago and got kinda shut down on the outro move, a big explosive move to a good jug.  I reworked my beta, swearing that I'd never do the problem, and eventually found a good method for the last move.  I fell going for the jug a few times, rested for 5 minutes, and pulled on for one more attempt.  I was completely worked but I pulled out some try-hard and found myself at the last move, staring at the jug.  I unwound and was shocked to feel myself hanging from the outro jug.  PSYCHED!  I topped out the boulder relieved.  Because The Worm Turns is, how do you say...not my style...I am extremely stoked on having completed it.  I'm really psyched to try to work on my weaknesses right now.  First step:  work on jumping!  


The Worm Turns V11

There are two problems at Joe's that I've left undone that I would like to do my next trip down...We Call Him Michael V11 and Trent's Mom V10.  I also want to start working on either Blackout, Gentleman's Project, or the Sit Start to Hooters soon.  Tomorrow I'm off to Little Cottonwood with Cam.  My main objective is Maisch Roof V11.  More updates tomorrow...

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