Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Punted

I punted off the last move of Ching V12 today.
It sucked.
I was pissed.
I then proceeded to blow my tip to hell.
It looks like hamburger.
I was even more pissed.
I'm still kicking myself for punting.
I went to the gym afterwards.
My fingers are not psyched.
They feel very fat.




The hold that makes me bleed...............................................every session


I will let my tip heal.
I will go back and try again.
Hopefully I'll do it.

Friday, March 27, 2009

That White...

Psych was high until this past week when a snow storm blew into Salt Lake. Since then it has been hard to stay motivated. I'm stuck working so I can't get out to Joe's or St. George and I'm not that psyched to go to the gym. 


Hayley and I went to Momentum Climbing Gym to do some routes for the first time in months.  The verdict...I have no endurance.  I feel like I need the motherload in my life...too bad I'm across the country.  Today we went out to LCC and found dry rock on the Tigerstripe boulder, where I have been trying Ching V12 on and off for a month or so.  This problem frustrates the hell out of me.  Not only have I tried every piece of beta imaginable and still haven't found my way to the top, the holds are sharp and unpleasant. 




I was getting really close to doing the problem...when all of a sudden...







...I split my tip.  That kinda ended my day so we drove back home so I could start messing around with my early bday present from Hayley...she hooked it up and got me a Nikon D40!  Psyched! Hopefully this means that I'll learn how to take some decent photos for everybody's entertainment.  Here are a few from my first day of shooting...




Obviously they're not the best but hey...it's a start.  Sunday I'm trying to make it to Joe's to finish off a few projects....if not its back to LCC.  Trying to stay psyched...

 

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Sneaky Sneaky Sir...

So a few days ago I posted about going up to LCC with the intention of doing Maisch Roof V11. I didn't end up making it out to try the problem like I wanted to. Instead I climbed on some chiller problems and then went to try The Dominatrix again. The Dominatrix went fairly well. I feel a lot better on the crux move but I'm still nowhere close to doing it. I'm hoping that it'll be one of those problems I can come back to a year later and do fairly easily. HA! That'd be sick! Anyways...today I was set on making it back out to try Maisch Roof. Hayley and I made our way out, I laid down the pads, brushed the holds, and got psyched. I pulled on and grabbed a bad right hand crimp, set me feet up and fell into a good incut undercling crimp. I made a few more moves and threw out to a good slopey rail on the lip. I was suprised and realized that I had a good chance at flashing it from there. After a few more difficult moves I was on the short headwall and was staring at the jug on the lip of the boulder. I tried to just lock off the right hand and reach out to the jug...no bueno...I brought my hand back down, set my feet up, threw to the jug, and latched it! PSYCHED!!




This is my first flash of the grade and I'm pretty psyched. I didn't really have any expectations going into it, which I think helped quite a bit.


We ended up going to a couple other areas later in the evening to do some more easier climbing.  Tomorrow I'm headed to either American Fork to see if things have dried out or out to LCC again. Chyeaa!!!


Some shots:



Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Fingerhut on MVM

Check out Momentumvm.com for the video of my flash of Fingerhut in Joe's Valley.  Psyched!

Saturday, March 14, 2009

America's Playground

I made the trip to Joe's Valley (a.k.a. America's Playground) for a day trip on Friday.  It was some of the most fun that I've had in a while. 

 
We warmed up at the Boysize Area where my buddies Nathan and Cam attempted Boy Size V6 and Golden Plates V7.  They both got close on these two rad problems.

Cam stuntin'
 
Boysize V6


Nathan googlin'

Golden Plates V7

Hayley mean muggin'


After our warm up sesh we rolled over to the Mansize Area so I could try Scrawny & Brawny V10.  I looked at this problem when I did Fingerhut a week ago and thought that I had a good chance at flashing it.  The problem is very simple...take two terrible starting crimps, put your feet on, and pop to a good sloping edge.  After that you make two campus moves on finger buckets before topping out.  My first go I surprised myself by sticking the first move.  I thought that if I stuck that move I'd be able to do it without any trouble.  Unfortunately my surprise led to tunnel vision and I missed a key hold out right.  I was frustrated that I had blown my flash but it wasn't the end of the world.  I jumped on right away for my second go.  I stuck the hold, campused out right to the good hold, and dabbed on Hayley.  Shit!  I was now even more frustrated and jumped on again immediately.  This time I managed to make my way to the top.  I would have been really psyched to have flashed this problem but what are you gonna do....can't win 'em all.  

Scrawny & Brawny V10

We headed to an area I hadn't been to next called the Garden of Eden.  I was interested in the classic Anatomy Act V7, Save Yourself V9,  and a problem I had seen video of simply called Eden V10.  I ended up flashing Anatomy Act and Save Yourself, but not before getting the shit scared out of me while topping out Save Yourself.  The problem is fairly tall and I was not very psyched to mantle at that height.  I was tempted to hop down but Nathan kept me psyched... "In it to win it"  haha.  Awesome.  After my tweak out on Save Yourself I made sure to eye the hell out of Eden's topout.  Eden is slightly taller, and at about 20 feet, it intimidated the hell out of me.  I told myself I'd give it one go and if I didn't do it I'd come back for it.  I made it past the easier section and up into the crux.  Unfortunately I had sketched myself out and couldn't make myself commit.  Oh well though...I tried.

Cam attempting Big Joe V7

I was feeling pretty wrecked at this point but was stoked to make my way back to The Worm Turns V11.  I tried this problem about a week ago and got kinda shut down on the outro move, a big explosive move to a good jug.  I reworked my beta, swearing that I'd never do the problem, and eventually found a good method for the last move.  I fell going for the jug a few times, rested for 5 minutes, and pulled on for one more attempt.  I was completely worked but I pulled out some try-hard and found myself at the last move, staring at the jug.  I unwound and was shocked to feel myself hanging from the outro jug.  PSYCHED!  I topped out the boulder relieved.  Because The Worm Turns is, how do you say...not my style...I am extremely stoked on having completed it.  I'm really psyched to try to work on my weaknesses right now.  First step:  work on jumping!  


The Worm Turns V11

There are two problems at Joe's that I've left undone that I would like to do my next trip down...We Call Him Michael V11 and Trent's Mom V10.  I also want to start working on either Blackout, Gentleman's Project, or the Sit Start to Hooters soon.  Tomorrow I'm off to Little Cottonwood with Cam.  My main objective is Maisch Roof V11.  More updates tomorrow...