Wednesday, February 25, 2009


Saturday night Hayley and I packed up the car to make the three hour drive to Joe's Valley.  We arrived, made dinner, and crashed for the night.  We awoke to beautiful weather Sunday morning.  Everything was going great... I woke up, made coffee, started breakfast...everything was leading up to an awesome day of climbing. damn dog ran off.  Rocco tends to get overexcited whenever we visit a new area/whenever he is allowed to roam on his own.  Well apparently he thought it was a good time to go exploring because the little bastard disappeared for well over an hour.  Hayley and I ran up and down the hillside calling him...but to no avail.  He just disappeared.  One minute he was hanging around...the next he was GONE.  We eventually found him lurking just past our camp site.  I was PISSED.  There was absolutely NO WAY that he didn't hear us calling him...he's usually VERY good about staying close...but this time he just ignored us.  Needless to say he spent the rest of the under close watch and attached to a leash.  

Rocco bumming

Loosing your dog is one of the worst feelings ever man...I hate makes me feel so sick.   Anyways...that kinda put me in a rough mood for the rest of the day...I didn't really feel like climbing so we ended up kind of exploring the different sectors of Joe's and messing around on some random problems.

Big Joe Area-Joe's Valley

Yesterday we went up to Little Cottonwood to do some bouldering.  Our first stop was the Gate Boulders.  I warmed up on some good V3's and V4's before I hopped on Superfly V8.  I had tried this problem a few times about a week ago and kept getting shut down on the last jump move.  Basically the problem goes like this...grab good starting crimps, pop for okay right hand crimp, move feet, match, and jump for a big jug.  I was able to top out after finding some good left toe hook beta that allowed me to make the match much easier...PSYCHED!  Super cool problem that I highly recommend.  After that I tried a problem called Barfly V8.  The first move is the crux..a sort of pull-your-ass-off-the-ground-and-you'll-send problem.  That is unless you fall off the exit mantle like I did.  I did the problem next go though...just some body position tweakage.  

Mantle on Barfly V8

The day before, Hayley and I hiked to the Upper Hill in search of a problem called The Dominatrix V12/13.  I had seen footage of Ty Landman doing the problem on MVM and it looked sweet.  After some intense hiking I finally found the problem way up on the hillside.  The Dominatrix is a steep slopey compression problem that climbs an favorite style.  Unfortunately it started to get dark so we had to bail.  After our stop at the Gate Boulders yesterday, we went back up to The Dominatrix so I could give it a go.  I quickly found out that Ty makes this problem look ridiculously easy in the video....go figure.  It is crazy hard for me, BUT, I ended up figuring out the beta and I think I can do it with a bit more work (and some rest days). 
The Dominatrix V12/13

Tomorrow I'll either head back up to try The Dominatrix or I'll take 4 rest days until we're at Joe's on Sunday...

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