Friday, February 20, 2009

Is You Suurrrioussss?!?!

Yesterday I woke up early (8a.m.) and made my way out to LCC to try to squeeze in a session.  I've been on a solo mission for the past week or so, trying to dry off the boulders in the Secret Garden sector of LCC.  I was afraid the snow/rain that came through Salt Lake on Wednesday might have made these trips pointless.  But, I'm psyched to say that it has worked!  I went out yesterday morning to find that all the boulders were completely dry and that there was only minimal snow on the tops of the boulders.  The day started off slow.  The lack of sun in the canyon made for some extremely cold temps to warm up in.  Eventually the sun rose over the mountain and I was blasted with warm sun.  The rest of the day was quite enjoyable as far as temps go.  STICKY!  One problem that I've been dying to try has been All Thumbs V10.  This boulder has ALWAYS been wet since my boulder brushing journeys had begun. I was thrilled to see that it was actually bone dry.  I played around with a couple different sets of beta before finally sticking with one.   You start out underneath the lip of a boulder on a good slopey rail.


The first move is a compression move where you reach out to the lip of the boulder and you end up pinching the lip.


After you adjust your feet you lock off to an awesome crimpy pinch.  The crux for me was matching on this hold and throwing out to a minijug.  After this the problem is basically over...a few chill exit moves.


I had split my tip a few days prior on a problem called Copperhead and proceeded to split it open AGAIN after trying the problem a handful of times.  I absolutely hate taping my fingers but I had no other option.  I was forced to deal.    
  

It was all good though...I ended up climbing the problem fairly quickly after figuring out the correct beta. So psyched on this problem! There is a variation that is a direct finish that I plan on going back to soon!  I love this style of climbing...slopey compression...AWESOME!  I ended up getting my new pair of Solutions (which I'm really psyched on) in the mail yesterday also...so a gym session was key.  I am so sore today it's crazy.  I planned on going in and only doing some easy laps to try to break the shoes in but I proceeded to get really psyched and went all out.  I'm taking two rest days and I think Hayley and I are either heading to Joe's or Bishop early next week for a few days.  There is SO MUCH that I want to do at both areas.  PSYCHED!

1 comment:

  1. Nice send!!

    Thanks for the community service too, I'm really psyched to play around on copperhead in the next week or so.

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