Thursday, January 1, 2009

Biggie Shorty Extension

After a rest day I woke up early so I could spend the day bouldering at LRC. It is always a struggle for me to get up at 5 a.m. in order to sign up for passes for the day but yesterday it was definitely worth it. The day started slow, waking up at 7, making coffee, and driving the hour and a half to Chattanooga. It was pretty cold when we finally arrived due to the wind so it took awhile to warm up properly. I jumped on one of the coolest looking problems at LRC called Tennessee moves and a long lock-off to a sloper gets you to the top of the rig. Very cool indeed. This problem was hard for me for sure. The long lockoff to the sloper was full span for me. Luckily I was able to do it quickly and without getting too worked.

Next on the agenda was the Biggie Shorty Extension. I had tried the problem a few days prior and had gotten close after figuring out the moves. I climbed the original Biggie Shorty V10 a year ago on my first trip to LRC. The extension had just been put up by Matt Bosley and it caught my eye immediately. The shapes of the holds, the natural line, and the fact that it was difficult made the problem very appealing to me. When I first started working out the moves, I realized that it was very possible for me and I actually ended up falling going for the sloping sidepull of Biggie Shorty on one of my last goes a few days before.

I threw pads down and brushed all the holds, something I am notorious for doing before every problem I try.

Photos:  Kevin Todd

The conditions were much better yesterday than they had been before and I felt good. My first and second go I fell going to the slopey crimp rail before the move to the slopey sidepull. I realized I wasn't fully warmed up and rested for a few minutes before trying again. This time I hit the slopey crimp rail, matched, made the long lockoff to the slopey sidepull, and managed to make my way to the top.  

Biggie Shorty Extension V12

I am very psyched to have climbed this problem without too much trouble. As for the grade...those who've done it call it V12. However, they called it V11 for the triple crown comp. I'm going to agree with others that have done it and call it V12. It is hard for me to grade problems at this difficulty because I haven't had much experience at this grade and because this problem suited me perfectly. For me it was more difficult than God Module and as hard as other V12's I've tried in the past.

Anyways...the day was still young and there were other problems that I wanted to try. I had tried The White Face V10 a week or so before when conditions were poor and fell going for the finishing hold. Yesterday I sent second try, only after my foot slipped while going for the finishing hold...again.

I absolutely love this problem. It's somewhat tall, powerful, and crimpy,...all good qualities in a boulder problem. It is also techy...but it doesn't really climb like a technical problem...weird... but awesome! 

There's a problem just to the left of The White Face called Tyrone Biggums V10 that I've been wanting to try when temps cooled down a bit and when friction was available. My skin was thin and sweating at this point but I was somehow able to hold the bad slopey crimp rail long enough to move my feet around and make the move to a jug. 

Yesterday was by far one of the best days of bouldering I've ever had and I am psyched to be resting today. Tomorrow Hayley and I are either headed back to LRC to try and finish some of our projects or we might change it up and head over to check out Foster Falls. 

We leave the Southeast in a week to head to Utah and there is still so much I want to do before we head out. I'm definitely gonna miss the Southeast-the people, atmosphere, and awesome climbing-but I will be back! Southern Utah is gonna be rad-The Cathedral, Black and Tan, VRG. First stop on our journey...Joes Valley! So psyched...Joe's looks SICK!!!

Some shots of Hayley...

Hayley getting her highball on...

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