I've been in the Southeast since the beginning of December. In the past month or so I've gotten a chance to boulder at Little Rock City, Horse Pens 40, Rocktown, and Dayton Pocket/Laurel Snow. Unfortunately the weather has been spotty to say the least. We've been lucky to have one or two days of good weather a week since leaving the Red. We've really been forced to put those dry days to good use.
Photos: Kevid Todd
Five-O V9, HP40
At first, switching from 8 months of route climbing to bouldering felt terrible. I definitely forgot how much bouldering helps out your climbing game. Luckily I adjusted after just a weekend.
After a few weeks back on the bouldering front, Hayley and I met my buddy Kevin at Horse Pens 40 for the weekend. I've spent a decent amount of time at HP over the last few years. In fact, I was fortunate enough to have my first outdoor climbing experience at HP 4 years ago.
God Module is a problem that I've wanted to do at Horse Pens since I first saw it. The problem is only four moves long and starts on two small incut crimps and a bad smear foot. The first move is definitely the hardest because you have to pull onto the wall before deadpointing up to a slopey, but good, crimp. From there you have to lock off the left hand long enough to bring your right hand off the starting hold and match a good crimp next to the left hand. After this you bring your left hand up to a bad sidepull crimp and launch somewhat blindly to a big jug.
God Module V11, HP40
After warming up I headed over to give God Module a try. I had tried the problem for about an hour last year but was nowhere close to being able to do the first move, let alone the problem. This year I found myself being able to hang of the starting holds with ease. I was very psyched to put my shoes on and give it a go. My first go I nearly sent the problem, falling off the last move to the jug. I fell off that move a few more times before finally topping out! God Module is a very meaningful problem to me. I am very pleased to have done this problem and for it to be my first of the grade.
Since that weekend my climbing time has been slowed drastically due to the weather. It seems like every day Hayley and I have a free day to climb it rains. Hopefully we can get some good weather soon.
I went to Dayton for the first time on Tuesday. I've been really psyched to visit the area and to specifically check out River Dance V9, Vapor Lock V10, and Western Gold V11. Hayley, Kevin, and I cruised up to Dayton, but because we hadn't been there before, we ended up hiking for a good part of the day.
The first boulder we arrived to was the River Dance boulder. I was super psyched to give River Dance a good flash burn. After psuedo-warming up I jumped on and fell off the last hard move, missing a key foot placement. I tried the move from there a few times and sent next attempt. I highly suggest this problem for anybody in the area. In my opinion it is one of the best of its grade in the southeast!
We ended up finding the Vapor Lock roof after about an hour of scrambling. That time was well spent because we were able to get a look at the potential that the area holds and I am excited to take some brushes with next time we go out. Vapor Lock is an amazing problem that climbs out a horizontal roof on perfect sloping pinches. It is by far the best roof problem I have ever been on and it made me realize how weak I am on this style of climbing!
Random Problem-River Dance Area
We went back today after going to LRC only to find out that everything was completely soaked. My main goal was to find a problem called Western Gold. I have seen photos and video of this problem and I have been hooked since. My buddy Nathan Drolet gave me great directions, however, I didn't follow them very well and ended up hiking for an extra hour or so. I was psyched to finally find the problem but unfortunately it was also soaked. I played on the first three moves for a good 15 minutes before calling it a day.
I am heading to LRC tomorrow and hopefully I will be able to find some dry rock.
The White Face V10, LRC
There are several problems I want to do there before I leave for Utah in late January. Flying High V11, The White Face V10, Tyrone Biggums V10, Robbing the Toothfairy V9, and the Shield V12 are all on the list. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to tick a few of them off...