Tuesday, December 30, 2008


Yesterday I went to LRC with Hayley and Kevin.  The crisp temps and clear blue skies were a welcome change to the warm cloud of rain and humidity that has been hovering over the southeast for the past week.  I had a few problems on my list that I wanted to try including Grimace V8, Robbing the Toothfairy V9, Biggie Shorty Extension V11/12, and Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse V9.  After warming up I headed over to give Grimace a good flash burn.  Kevin had flashed the problem a few days prior and he seemed to think that I stood a good chance of doing the same.  He sprayed me down with beta and I managed to top out first go.  We headed over to try Robbing the Toothfairy next.  The problem is a low compression-traverse along the low lip of a boulder.  At first it felt absurdly hard!  After working out the first move I was able to link fairly far into the problem, but it just wasn't going to go.

Photos:  Kevin Todd
Robbing the Toothfairy V9

I usually don't struggle with this style of problem but this thing shut me down!  I dunno...I'd get past the hard part and my arms and core would just fail!  Cleopatra-Cinderalla went about the same for me.  I was able to get through the shit and then I'd just fail on the last throw.  Super frustrating for sure.  Maybe I was just having an off day or maybe I need to try harder.  Either way, I am psyched to go back and finish both of these problems off.  Both problems have cool holds, cool moves, and are super fun.  My buddy Kevin, on the other hand, killed it.  He ended up flashing Cleopatra and then doing Cleo-Cinderella traverse quickly.  All with an injured finger! Proud for sure.  After resting for a bit I cruised over to try the extension to Biggie Shorty.  I had done Biggie Shorty a year ago on my first trip to LRC and the extension has always been something I've wanted to try.  The extension starts left of the original start and follows a line of slopey pinches into the crux of Biggie Shorty. This is definitely one of my favorite problems at LRC and, in my opinion, it is better than the original Biggie Shorty.  I ended up figuring out all the moves and fell going for the slopey sidepull of Biggie Shorty on one of my last tries.  I am very psyched to have made progress on the extension and look forward to going back tomorrow to try and finish it off.

Some pics...

The White Face V10

Hayley sending Pocket Pool V4

Castaway V7...one of my favorites at LRC

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